Gwillim Lakes, with Gregorio Peak in the distance. Valhalla Provincial Park, West Kootenays British Columbia Canada #80912

Purcell and Selkirk Mountains British Columbia

Purcell and Selkirk Mountains British Columbia

Gwillim Lakes, with Gregorio Peak in the distance. Valhalla Provincial Park, West Kootenays British Columbia Canada #80912Valhalla Provincial Park #80912  Purchase

The Purcells and Selkirks are two mountain ranges in southeast British Columbia. Together with the Monashees, they are part of the greater Columbia Mountains. These ranges, along with the western flanks of the Rockies, lie within the region known as the Kootenays. However, the Kootenays are more than just lofty wild peaks clad in glaciers. Its numerous valleys contain large fjord-like lakes and quaint small towns with vibrant art communities. Because the nearby and more famous Canadian Rockies draw most of the tourist crowds, the Kootenays remain relatively quiet and unknown.  Outdoor enthusiasts visiting the Kootenays will consequently find them refreshingly unspoiled.

The Purcells and Selkirks, while nearly abutting each other, are two geologically and visually different ranges. They contain two national parks, numerous provincial parks, one wilderness conservancy, and more impressive peaks and glaciers than you can shake a stick at. Also, between these protected areas are vast stretches of wild wilderness. All could easily qualify for national park status.

Gwillim Lakes, with Drinnan Peak in the distance. Valhalla Provincial Park, West Kootenays British Columbia Canada #80929Valhalla Provincial Park #80929  Purchase

Recreation in the Purcell and Selkirk Mountains

For hikers, backpackers, climbers, and backcountry skiers, the Kootenays offer freedom rapidly disappearing in parks and wilderness areas everywhere. With a few exceptions, such as Glacier National Park and Bugaboo Provincial Park, no permits or fees are required.  Just show up at a trailhead and enjoy the freedom of the hills.

The Purcell and Selkirk Mountains also have many sub-alpine meadows with beautiful stands of Alpine or Sub-Alpine Larch (Larix lyallii). If the words Larch Madness have you racing for your gear,  you’ll love the Kootenays. The North Cascades, while having many of the best larch locations, can be ridiculously overcrowded. Or even out of reach due to strict permitting systems. But in the Kootenays, finding a beautiful spot and having it all to yourself is easy.

Helicopter lifting off Rocky Point Ridge, Bugaboos in the distance. Bugaboo Provincial Park, Purcell Mountains British Columbia. #62947Heli-hiking in Bugaboo Provincial Park #62947  Purchase

There are, of course, a few downsides to consider when planning a trip to the Kootenays. Several areas are popular destinations for the heli-hiking and heli-skiing crowd.  Canadian Mountains Holidays (CMH) is one of several with luxury lodges in the Selkirks and Purcells. It can be very disappointing to grunt and sweat your way into a beautiful alpine basin only to hear the constant thumping of helicopters. Or even worse, unknowingly setting up a camp next to a landing area.

Mount Monica and Alpine Larches (Larix lyallii) are reflected in a lake at Monica Meadows. Purcell Mountains British Columbia Canada #81331Purcell Mountains Larches #81331  Purchase

Photography Tips for the Purcell and Selkirk Mountains

  • For photographing Sub-Alpine Larch (Larix lyallii), the last half of September through the first week of October is the best time to visit. However, conditions and timing are different every year.
  • Try and time a larch photography trip to include a fresh dusting of snow.
  • Scouting is an essential technique for better photography. Always scout out the best locations in advance by spending the day thoroughly exploring the area. Make notes of the best spots and how long it will take to reach them in the morning and evening golden hours.

Alpine Larches (Larix lyallii) in peak fall color reflected in a lake in Monica Meadows. Purcell Mountains British Columbia Canada #81435Purcell Mountains Larches #81435  Purchase

  • Always allow enough time to photograph in the morning and evening golden hours. Also, try and plan for a multi-day trip to take advantage of different lighting conditions.

More Photography tips:  Check my post Backpacking Photography Tips for suggestions and tips on what camera gear to bring and for tips on making better photos during your trip.

Backpacker admiring view on Rocky Point Ridge. Howser Towers, Vowell Glacier, and Northern Bugaboos in the distance. Bugaboo Provincial Park Purcell Mountains British Columbia. #62896Backpacking in Bugaboo Provincial Park #62896  Purchase

Hiking/Backpacking Purcell and Selkirk Mountains

When planning a trip to the Kootenays, consider road access and trail conditions. Trailhead access can involve a long drive on gravel roads that are often very narrow and bone-jarringly rough. While most don’t require a 4×4 vehicle, they usually require high clearance.

For those accustomed to hiking along well-maintained trails in the Pacific Northwest, a hike in the Kootenays can be an eye-opener. Many trails receive little or no maintenance and are merely rough routes over roots, rocks, and boulders, with no switchbacks.

Gwillim Lakes backcountry camp. Valhalla Provincial Park, West Kootenays British Columbia Canada #80758Valhalla Provincial Park backcountry camp #80758  Purchase

Provincial and National parks in the Kootenays often have designated backcountry camp areas. They may include hardened tent sites, outhouses, cooking areas, and bear-proof food lockers.

Porcupines and Vehicles

One interesting quirk about the Kootenay Region is the presence of chicken wire at many trailheads. Local wisdom advises wrapping vehicles in chicken wire to prevent porcupines from munching on rubber components. I always bring this up with others at trailheads. Most people say they’ve never had an issue, and a few testify to seeing porcupines at trailheads.

Porcupine prevention Kootenays, British Columbia #80731  Purchase

Not all trailheads have chicken wire available, and it’s debatable if it’s an issue worth worrying about. However, if there is chicken wire, then wrap your vehicle. But if there is none, then don’t worry about it. Also, position rocks and sticks to prevent the critters from getting underneath the wire.

Mount Sir Donald and seen from Abbott Ridge. Selkirk Mountains Glacier National Park British Columbia #62838Glacier National Park British Columbia #62838  Purchase

Getting There

If you’re traveling from western Washington or Lower Mainland British Columbia, you can expect a long circuitous drive. Aside from Glacier National Park at Rogers Pass on the Trans-Canada Highway, there isn’t a fast direct route to the Kootenays. Most destinations require driving up and down long valleys and often require free ferry rides across lakes. Plan for a full day of driving to get to the trailhead. Then, get a fresh start the next morning. And that’s not bad since you’ll be traveling through beautiful scenery. You’ll also get a chance to experience the local vibe.

Lastly, you’ll appreciate that the Kootenays are home to several commercially operated hot springs. Sprinkled throughout the region, they are just the thing after a rewarding trip into the mountains.

Alpine Larches (Larix lyallii) in peak fall color after fresh snowfall. Mount Amen-Ra is in the distance. Purcell Mountains British Columbia Canada #81305Purcell Mountains Larches #813051  Purchase

For more in-depth info check out West Kootenay Hiking, and also the excellent guidebook: Hikes Around Invermere and the Columbia Valley by Aaron Cameron and Matt Gunn

Below are a few of the more notable destinations. Of course, I have several favorite hikes but you’ll have to discover those on your own, like I did!

Glacier National Park (not the one in Montana)
Valhalla Provincial Park
Bugaboo Provincial Park

Sunset over ponds below Mount Monica. Purcell Mountains British Columbia Canada #80997Purcell Mountains British Columbia #80997  Purchase

Leave No Trace

Please, Please, Please!  Don’t plan a trip to this or any other national park, monument, or wilderness area unless you are prepared to follow Leave No Trace guidelines (LNT). National parks and wilderness areas worldwide are under incredible pressure from the growing number of visitors. So, please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

Please visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics to learn more about LNT’s principles. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

LEAVE NO TRACE SEVEN PRINCIPLES

1. Plan and Prepare
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
3. Dispose of Waste Properly
4. Leave What You Find
5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
6. Respect Wildlife
7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors
© Leave No Trace: www.LNT.org

Learn about how to protect the places we love to photograph
Visit the Nature First Website
Nature First the alliance for responsible nature photography

 

 


All photos appearing in Purcell and Selkirk Mountains British Columbia, are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints. Click on any image to purchase, or contact me for more info!

Gwillim Lakes, with Gregorio Peak in the distance. Valhalla Provincial Park, West Kootenays British Columbia Canada #80819Valhalla Provincial Park #80819  Purchase

Purcell and Selkirk Mountains British Columbia