Dramatic sunrise sky over Paulina Lake and Cascade Range is seen from the Paulina Peak overlook. Newberry National Volcanic Monument, Oregon #84085

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument

Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument #84062 Purchase

Central Oregon is a land that encompasses a wide variety of landscapes. The area includes the snowy Cascade Mountains, fragrant forests, rushing rivers, and high desert or shrub-steppe. Underlying and shaping all of these features is a long history of volcanic activity. In fact, it’s difficult to go anywhere in central Oregon without coming across volcanic features such as lava flows, craters, columnar basalt, pumice fields, or lava caves.

In the center of this vast area is Newberry National Volcanic Monument. Also known as simply Newberry Crater, it is the largest volcano in the Cascades Range. Newberry is even larger than nearby Crater Lake. However, it is not just a crater but a large caldera with many craters within. Furthermore, nearly every volcanic feature in the Pacific Northwest can be seen within its boundaries. Additionally, several hot springs along the shore of Paulina Lake unquestionably prove that Newberry is still an active volcano.

Photographers visiting the Newberry can find inspiration throughout the monument. Although some features can be difficult to photograph, they are worth the effort. In this post, I will touch on several interesting areas.

Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument #84094 Purchase

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument / Paulina Peak

Photographers looking for a grand view should drive to the summit of Paulina Peak, which is 7984 feet above sea level. The views are seemingly endless in every direction. From the overlook, the entire caldera is visible. In addition, looking west, the snowy summits of the Three Sisters volcanos dominate the horizon.

Although most people drive to the summit, there is also the Paulina Peak Trail. The trail starts along the summit road near the base of Paulina Peak. It’s a 4.2-mile round trip with 1400 feet of elevation gain. It’s a pleasant hike to the top, although not very practical for photographers needing to be in place during golden hours.

Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument #84105 Purchase

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument at the summit of Paulina Peak is relatively easy. The large parking lot is right at the overlook on the summit. I say relatively easy because although the area is small, you’ll need to scout out interesting compositions and patiently wait for light. Even though the view alone is magnificent, you’ll need to add other elements to your compositions to create compelling images.

Besides the summit overlook, you can hike down the Paulina Peak Trail to scout for more interesting aspects. But use caution, there are many cliffs in the area and the rock is very loose and unstable.

Big Obsidian Flow seen from Paulina Peak #84094 Purchase

Big Obsidian Flow

Another outstanding feature to visit and photograph is the Big Obsidian Flow. This sprawling volcanic feature is visible from the Paulina Peak summit and can be accessed by an interpretive trail along the Paulina Lake Road.

At only 1300 years old, this lava flow is the youngest in Oregon. It is also one of the few lava flows in Oregon where you can see obsidian up close. The 1-mile interpretive trail begins with a climb up the flow on stairs and then winds among the flow. Along the way are signs in key areas describing the fascinating history and geology of the flow.

Big Obsidian Flow during Blue Hour #84174 Purchase

Big Obsidian Flow during Blue Hour #84139 Purchase

Photographers will find Big Obsidian Flow to be a very challenging subject. It’s difficult to isolate good compositions, and the contrast between the black lava and the sky will require special exposure techniques. It is best to avoid sunny mid-day conditions where contrasts are extreme. Golden hour can bring warm, even light, although contrast levels can still be high. On the other hand, Blue hour light can be wonderful.

In addition, while it may be tempting to leave the trail and search further for compositions, this is not recommended. Obsidian is basically black glass, and its broken edges are razor-sharp. Everywhere on the flow blocks of obsidian and other forms of lava are unstable and extremely difficult to walk on. So obviously, it’s best to keep to the trail.

Rabbitbrush in Lava Cast Forest #83934 Purchase

Lava Cast Forest

Lava Cast Forest is another interesting but difficult area to photograph. There is a mile-long interpretive trail here with some fascinating subject matter along its length. The voids in the lava where trees once stood and were burned away are interesting. However, they aren’t the best subject matter.

Lava Cast Forest #83922 Purchase

Twisted Tree Lava Cast Forest #83922 Purchase

Lava Cast Forest #83922 Purchase

In my opinion, the trees and plants growing in and around the edges of the lava flow are much more interesting. Since soil conditions in the lava field are harsh, many trees have grown into strange twisting shapes. Also, small flowering plants stand out in stark contrast to the black lava, making for fun nature studies.

Lava River Cave #84177 Purchase

Lava River Cave

A trip to for photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument would not be complete without visiting Lava River Cave, the longest continuous lava cave in Oregon. While the 2.2-mile roundtrip hike in the cave is fun, there are few good photo ops.

Unlike living limestone caves, Lava River Cave does not have interesting dripping speleothem structures such as stalactites or stalagmites. For the most part, the walls are smooth. But it is a fascinating cave, nonetheless.

Lava River Cave #84177 Purchase

Photographers will need to bring a tripod as there is no lighting anywhere in the cave. If you don’t have a headlamp, one can be rented at the entrance, as you won’t be allowed to proceed into the cave without one. It’s a good idea to bring at least one extra headlamp or flashlight as a backup and also for light painting. Besides the lighting issue, it is also difficult to photograph in the cave because there is a constant flow of people.

Essential Tips for Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument:

Scouting is an essential, but often overlooked, technique for better photography. Always scout out the best locations in advance by spending the day thoroughly exploring the area. Make notes of the best spots and how long it will take to reach them in the morning and evening golden hours
Always allow enough time. One of the most important considerations when planning a photography trip to any location is time. Good photography rarely results from a hurried schedule. Likewise, chasing light is stressful, stay in one place and let the light come to you!
Photographing in lava fields may require exposure stacking techniques to deal with the high contrast.
Likewise, avoid polarizing filters on sunny days, they will increase the contrast and render lava empty as black spaces.
Recreation passes are required for entry into Newberry National Volcanic Monument. Either a Northwest Forest Pass or any of the Interagency passes will work.
Lava River Cave is open only from early May through mid-September. Reservations are required, and tickets can be purchased at Recreation.gov
Several great campsites are available in Newberry, but during the busy summer season, reservations are required. Outside the monument, random camping may be found on national forest or BLM land.
The town of Bend is only about ten miles north of the monument. A variety of accommodations and amenities are available there.

Paulina Falls Newberry National Volcanic Monument #84180 Purchase

Leave No Trace

Please, Please, Please! Don’t plan a trip to this or any other national park, monument, or wilderness area unless you are prepared to follow Leave No Trace guidelines (LNT). National parks and wilderness areas worldwide are under incredible pressure from the growing number of visitors. So, please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

LEAVE NO TRACE SEVEN PRINCIPLES

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
3. Dispose of Waste Properly
4. Leave What You Find
5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
6. Respect Wildlife
7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors
© Leave No Trace: www.LNT.org

Learn about how to protect the places we love to photograph
Visit the Nature First Website

Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument #84033 Purchase

All photos appearing in Newberry National Volcanic Monument are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints. Click on any image to purchase, or contact me for more info!

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument

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June 13, 2020January 15, 2025

Oregon Coast Photography Trip

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area #44164 Purchase

This week we will be leaving for a ten-day photo shoot on the Oregon Coast. Our usual plan is to photograph coastal locations in April or early May but this year we had to postpone it for obvious reasons. However, after several months of enduring Stay-at-home orders filled with endless home improvement projects, we can’t wait to hit the road again and get back to work!

At this writing, only about half of Oregon State parks along the coast are open for camping. So we’re a bit limited on our options. Fortunately, a few choice locations are open, enabling us to photograph some areas we haven’t visited in a number of years. We will be starting at Shore Acres State Park with its whimsical sandstone cliff formations, and Bandon Beach‘s iconic sea-stacks. Then we’ll move north to the Oregon Dunes, and finally on to the Cannon Beach area.

Shore Acres State Park Oregon #48703

If you’re also visiting any of these areas at the same time let me know, I’d love to meet up and chat!

While this long-awaited trip to the Oregon Coast is exciting in its own right, it’s only just the beginning. Several days after returning home I’ll be leaving on an extended photo tour of the Rocky Mountains. In some ways, it will be a continuation of last year’s epic trip to the Idaho Sawtooths and Wyomings Wind River Range.

Bandon Beach Oregon #48491 Purchase

This trip will be backpacking oriented and destinations are still in the planning stage. However, they most likely will include the White Cloud Wilderness of Idaho, Wind River Range, and Bob Marshall Wilderness of Montana. If time and conditions allow a few backcountry spots in Glacier National Park may be included. After returning from the Oregon Coast I’ll post a formal announcement for this trip.

Cannon Beach from Ecola State Park Oregon #5627b Purchase

All photos appearing in Oregon Coast Photography Trip are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints

Want to learn more? Take your Creative Photography to the next level with Private Instruction and Guided Photo Tours.

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March 13, 2018January 7, 2025

Oregon Desert Photography

Oregon Desert Photography

Warner Lakes Wetlands, Oregon #60942 Purchase

Oregon Natural Desert Association is a grassroots organization that promotes awareness and protection of the unique environments of the Oregon Desert. Several years ago I was approached by Jim Davis, one of the founders of ONDA, to contribute photos for their yearly promotional calendar. Until then I wasn’t even aware of ONDA, but I quickly jumped at the chance to have my photography help with their conservation efforts. Being a lifelong landscape and nature photographer I always look for opportunities to give something back to the environment, and also help others appreciate the natural world we live in.

So when ONDA asked if I was interested in sharing some desert photography tips for their blog I didn’t hesitate to join in. The post has numerous tips from a variety of photographers who have contributed to the ONDA calendar. Many tips can apply to all landscape and nature photography subjects, but some are specific to desert environments.

You can check out the article here: How to Take Better Images of Oregon’s High Desert

Below are a few more tips I’d like to share.

Oregon Desert Photography Tip: Lighting

Full moon over Warner Lakes Wetlands, Oregon #60939 Purchase

The two photos above illustrate two important tips for landscape photography. The first is, to make sure to scout out locations with potential for good compositions in advance. That way you’ll know just where to go when the light gets good later on. Here at Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge, I wanted to find a good spot to take some photographs of Warner Lakes. While spending the afternoon hiking the slopes of Hart Mountain, I looked an elevated view along with a foreground that included some features native to the area. Here I included ubiquitous sagebrush and basalt boulders.

Secondly, photograph in the best light. There are many types of lighting conditions to work with and not all are suitable for every subject. I already photographed both of the above images the previous evening. However, clouds had diminished the quality of light. The next morning I awoke early, ready to work in the soft saturated light present during the Blue Hour. Many photographers pack it in as soon as the sun goes down, but it’s worthwhile to keep working. The hour following sunset can offer a soft colorful glow with low contrast. Not all Blue Hour light is equal though. Wispy high clouds directly above can reflect warm light down on your subject. However, those same clouds can cancel out any color if they are situated on and below the horizon where the sun sets or rises.

Oregon Desert Photography Tip: Be Patient

Sunset over Owyhee Canton, Oregon #56352

The photos above and below illustrate another important tip, be patient. Watch the weather, and wait it out until the light is gone. In both photos I experienced good light at the last minute. The weather had been dismal and grey for the entire day, and it didn’t look good for evening light. Both locations were very remote, especially Owyhee Canyon. Meaning there was no cell signal, so I couldn’t check weather forecasts. With nowhere else to go it just made sense to wait and see what happened, in these instances I was lucky.

When photographing the immensely popular Painted Hills, I was the only photographer who stayed. Everyone else gave up on the light and left. I also had my doubts until a tiny clearing in the clouds opened up on the horizon. Fortunately, this clearing was where the sun would be setting. When the sun poked through this clearing I had less than five minutes of good light to work with, but it was enough.

Painted Hills, Oregon #44747 Purchase

Oregon Desert Photography Tip: Midday Light Creativity

Another tip, and one that many photographers scoff at, is don’t neglect midday light. While not as common, taking good photos during the middle part of the day is possible. Interesting cloud formations or approaching storms can add an often-overlooked dimension to a landscape. Also, this is a good time to get a bit creative. Experiment with minimalism, low saturation, or black and white. The image below of Alvord Lake may not have the dramatic qualities to make it on the cover of Landscape or Outdoor Photographer or garner thousands of likes on Instagram or 500PX. However, it does illustrate the barren aspect of the Alvord Desert.

Painted Hills Oregon #44704 Purchase

Clouds over Alvord Lake, Oregon #60973 Purchase

Oregon Desert Photography Tip: Enjoy Your Surroundings!

If you’re photographing in the Oregon Desert, and especially the southeast corner, check out the many hot springs. After a job well done there’s nothing like a soak in a natural hot spring. Just sit back and enjoy the view!

Willow Creek Hot Spring, Oregon #61026

Oregon Desert Photography

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June 12, 2017January 25, 2019

Liking Lichens

Liking Lichens

Lichens #59874 Purchase

One of my favorite quirky subjects I love to photograph are lichens. Lichens grow just about everywhere but unfortunately are unappreciated by most people. They are some of the oldest organisms on land, going back perhaps 600 million years. They live in some of the most extreme conditions and are an important food source for animals such as caribou. For humans they are a natural source of antibiotics and pigments. Lichens are also an indicator of clean air as they will not grow in the presence of pollutants.

During my recent visit to Cottonwood State Park in Oregon I saw some outstanding lichen colonies. A large outcropping of columnar basalt which remains in shade harbored a beautiful display in many striking colors. Juxtaposed against the interesting patterns and cracks of crystallized basalt, the lichens made a wonderful abstract study.

Admittedly this kind of subject matter isn’t appealing to everyone, but I had a great time picking out interesting compositions.

Basalt and Lichens #59895 Purchase

Lichens #59869 Purchase

Lichens and Basalt #59897 Purchase

Basalt and Lichens #59881 Purchase

Liking Lichens

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June 8, 2017April 4, 2019

John Day River Oregon

John Day River Oregon

John Day River, Oregon #59904 Purchase

This post will begin a series of recaps from my recent spring photography trip. My first stop was Cottonwood Canyon State Park, along the lower John Day River Oregon. This is Oregon’s newest state park and it was a pleasure to visit. As you can see from the photos the surrounding country is part of the Coloumbia Plateau, with the John Day River cutting canyons through the flood basalt. The nature of this geology helps the river create many scenic winding turns and horseshoe bends.

John Day River, Oregon #59852 Purchase

Visiting this area in early spring offers cool green hillsides sprinkled with a variety of wildflowers. Most notably Balsamroot (Balsamorhiza sagittata) and Desert Parsley (Lomatium laevigatum). Later in the season the hills will turn a golden brown, and the weather will be much hotter. The park was donated by a local ranching family and contains several remnants of its past, such as a picturesque red barn and some farming implements. A small campground is located right along the river where several nice riverside trails begin. If you’re not into natural history or photography the river is supposedly great for fishing and the spring runoff offers excellent rafting.

Red barn Cottonwood Canyon State Park, Oregon #59841 Purchase

John Day River Cottonwood Canyon State Park, Oregon #59797 Purchase

Photography, of course, was the main reason for my visit. The goal was finding some nice views of the river bends. This proved however to be a bit of a challenge as many of the best bends were inaccessible by road or foot. After scouring Google Maps I did manage to find a backroad close to the canyon rim with a nice view. My research showed the best horseshoe bend view is situated about an hour drive south of the park. The weather forecast didn’t look good enough to make the trip worth it though. That one will have to wait until my next trip to the area.

Desert Parsley, John Day River, Oregon #59858 Purchase

A couple words of warning if you visit this quiet and special area. All unsurfaced roads can be impassable to vehicles after a rain, they turn into a gluey gumbo. Trust me on this, I once almost got stuck and had to wait a couple of days for the road to dry out before I could safely proceed. Rattlesnakes are common, and in spring ticks can be a problem. Also in late spring and summer the temperature can be very hot, with little shade to provide relief.

If you’d like to see more photos from this area you can search John Day River or Cottonwood Canyon State Park on my website. All photos can be licensed for editorial or commercial use or also be purchased as prints. Thanks for viewing and please pass this post along to your friends!

John Day River, Oregon #59912 Purchase

John Day River Oregon

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April 7, 2017January 25, 2019

Oregon Northern California Spring Photography

Oregon Northern California Spring Photography

Hells Canyon Recreation Area, Oregon #45010 Purchase

This week I will be leaving for an extended Spring trip to photograph landscape nature and travel imagery throughout Oregon and Northern California. During this excursion I’ll be photographing some new locations and subject matter, along with adding depth to places I’ve previously covered. Check out some of the exciting areas on the itinerary below.

Oregon: Hood River Valley Orchards, Southern Coast, Owyhee River and Canyon, Wallowa Valley Hells Canyon Area.

California: Redwoods National Park, Mount Shasta, Mendocino Coast, Point Reyes, Sonoma Valley Vineyards.

Shore Acres State Park, Oregon #48705 Purchase