Dramatic sunrise sky over Paulina Lake and Cascade Range is seen from the Paulina Peak overlook. Newberry National Volcanic Monument, Oregon #84085

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument

Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument #84062 Purchase

Central Oregon is a land that encompasses a wide variety of landscapes. The area includes the snowy Cascade Mountains, fragrant forests, rushing rivers, and high desert or shrub-steppe. Underlying and shaping all of these features is a long history of volcanic activity. In fact, it’s difficult to go anywhere in central Oregon without coming across volcanic features such as lava flows, craters, columnar basalt, pumice fields, or lava caves.

In the center of this vast area is Newberry National Volcanic Monument. Also known as simply Newberry Crater, it is the largest volcano in the Cascades Range. Newberry is even larger than nearby Crater Lake. However, it is not just a crater but a large caldera with many craters within. Furthermore, nearly every volcanic feature in the Pacific Northwest can be seen within its boundaries. Additionally, several hot springs along the shore of Paulina Lake unquestionably prove that Newberry is still an active volcano.

Photographers visiting the Newberry can find inspiration throughout the monument. Although some features can be difficult to photograph, they are worth the effort. In this post, I will touch on several interesting areas.

Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument #84094 Purchase

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument / Paulina Peak

Photographers looking for a grand view should drive to the summit of Paulina Peak, which is 7984 feet above sea level. The views are seemingly endless in every direction. From the overlook, the entire caldera is visible. In addition, looking west, the snowy summits of the Three Sisters volcanos dominate the horizon.

Although most people drive to the summit, there is also the Paulina Peak Trail. The trail starts along the summit road near the base of Paulina Peak. It’s a 4.2-mile round trip with 1400 feet of elevation gain. It’s a pleasant hike to the top, although not very practical for photographers needing to be in place during golden hours.

Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument #84105 Purchase

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument at the summit of Paulina Peak is relatively easy. The large parking lot is right at the overlook on the summit. I say relatively easy because although the area is small, you’ll need to scout out interesting compositions and patiently wait for light. Even though the view alone is magnificent, you’ll need to add other elements to your compositions to create compelling images.

Besides the summit overlook, you can hike down the Paulina Peak Trail to scout for more interesting aspects. But use caution, there are many cliffs in the area and the rock is very loose and unstable.

Big Obsidian Flow seen from Paulina Peak #84094 Purchase

Big Obsidian Flow

Another outstanding feature to visit and photograph is the Big Obsidian Flow. This sprawling volcanic feature is visible from the Paulina Peak summit and can be accessed by an interpretive trail along the Paulina Lake Road.

At only 1300 years old, this lava flow is the youngest in Oregon. It is also one of the few lava flows in Oregon where you can see obsidian up close. The 1-mile interpretive trail begins with a climb up the flow on stairs and then winds among the flow. Along the way are signs in key areas describing the fascinating history and geology of the flow.

Big Obsidian Flow during Blue Hour #84174 Purchase

Big Obsidian Flow during Blue Hour #84139 Purchase

Photographers will find Big Obsidian Flow to be a very challenging subject. It’s difficult to isolate good compositions, and the contrast between the black lava and the sky will require special exposure techniques. It is best to avoid sunny mid-day conditions where contrasts are extreme. Golden hour can bring warm, even light, although contrast levels can still be high. On the other hand, Blue hour light can be wonderful.

In addition, while it may be tempting to leave the trail and search further for compositions, this is not recommended. Obsidian is basically black glass, and its broken edges are razor-sharp. Everywhere on the flow blocks of obsidian and other forms of lava are unstable and extremely difficult to walk on. So obviously, it’s best to keep to the trail.

Rabbitbrush in Lava Cast Forest #83934 Purchase

Lava Cast Forest

Lava Cast Forest is another interesting but difficult area to photograph. There is a mile-long interpretive trail here with some fascinating subject matter along its length. The voids in the lava where trees once stood and were burned away are interesting. However, they aren’t the best subject matter.

Lava Cast Forest #83922 Purchase

Twisted Tree Lava Cast Forest #83922 Purchase

Lava Cast Forest #83922 Purchase

In my opinion, the trees and plants growing in and around the edges of the lava flow are much more interesting. Since soil conditions in the lava field are harsh, many trees have grown into strange twisting shapes. Also, small flowering plants stand out in stark contrast to the black lava, making for fun nature studies.

Lava River Cave #84177 Purchase

Lava River Cave

A trip to for photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument would not be complete without visiting Lava River Cave, the longest continuous lava cave in Oregon. While the 2.2-mile roundtrip hike in the cave is fun, there are few good photo ops.

Unlike living limestone caves, Lava River Cave does not have interesting dripping speleothem structures such as stalactites or stalagmites. For the most part, the walls are smooth. But it is a fascinating cave, nonetheless.

Lava River Cave #84177 Purchase

Photographers will need to bring a tripod as there is no lighting anywhere in the cave. If you don’t have a headlamp, one can be rented at the entrance, as you won’t be allowed to proceed into the cave without one. It’s a good idea to bring at least one extra headlamp or flashlight as a backup and also for light painting. Besides the lighting issue, it is also difficult to photograph in the cave because there is a constant flow of people.

Essential Tips for Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument:

Scouting is an essential, but often overlooked, technique for better photography. Always scout out the best locations in advance by spending the day thoroughly exploring the area. Make notes of the best spots and how long it will take to reach them in the morning and evening golden hours
Always allow enough time. One of the most important considerations when planning a photography trip to any location is time. Good photography rarely results from a hurried schedule. Likewise, chasing light is stressful, stay in one place and let the light come to you!
Photographing in lava fields may require exposure stacking techniques to deal with the high contrast.
Likewise, avoid polarizing filters on sunny days, they will increase the contrast and render lava empty as black spaces.
Recreation passes are required for entry into Newberry National Volcanic Monument. Either a Northwest Forest Pass or any of the Interagency passes will work.
Lava River Cave is open only from early May through mid-September. Reservations are required, and tickets can be purchased at Recreation.gov
Several great campsites are available in Newberry, but during the busy summer season, reservations are required. Outside the monument, random camping may be found on national forest or BLM land.
The town of Bend is only about ten miles north of the monument. A variety of accommodations and amenities are available there.

Paulina Falls Newberry National Volcanic Monument #84180 Purchase

Leave No Trace

Please, Please, Please! Don’t plan a trip to this or any other national park, monument, or wilderness area unless you are prepared to follow Leave No Trace guidelines (LNT). National parks and wilderness areas worldwide are under incredible pressure from the growing number of visitors. So, please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

LEAVE NO TRACE SEVEN PRINCIPLES

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
3. Dispose of Waste Properly
4. Leave What You Find
5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
6. Respect Wildlife
7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors
© Leave No Trace: www.LNT.org

Learn about how to protect the places we love to photograph
Visit the Nature First Website

Newberry Crater National Volcanic Monument #84033 Purchase

All photos appearing in Newberry National Volcanic Monument are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints. Click on any image to purchase, or contact me for more info!

Photographing Newberry National Volcanic Monument

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June 20, 2017January 25, 2019

Mount Shasta Pluto’s Cave

Mount Shasta Pluto’s Cave

Mount Shasta #60134 Purchase

Mt. Shasta is one of the most strikingly beautiful mountains in the Cascades. At 14,179 feet it is the second highest in the range. It is also a sacred mountain of the Klamath tribe. On my way south to the California coast I made a point of setting aside a few days to photograph this beautiful peak. In the image above I was lucky enough to arrive in the area just in time to photograph the mountain while bathed in evening light. The next morning I headed to U.S. Highway 97 for a view of the mountain as a backdrop for the road. Fortunately the morning fog lifted just long enough to make this compressed view image.

Mount Shasta from U.S. Highway 97 #60144 Purchase

Pluto’s Cave #60164 Purchase

As an enthusiast of all types of caves I was thrilled to learn about and visit Pluto’s cave while photographing in the Mount Shasta area. This cave is really just a large Lava tube created by a past eruption of Mount Shasta.

While checking out the main chamber a group of people passed by to explore the further reaches of the cave. I quickly set up my camera in hopes of making an interesting image. Having no idea how long of an exposure it would take so I just took a guess by leaving the shutter open for 7.5 minutes. I also used my headlamp to “paint” light on the ceiling and walls.

The coolest thing about this image is that the group of people were there to meditate. On finding suitable spots they turned off their headlamps and the leader began singing Native America chants in total darkness. A wonderful experience I’ll never forget.

Pluto’s Cave #60158 Purchase

Mount Shasta Pluto’s Cave

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May 22, 2017June 1, 2024

New Images Mount Shasta

New Images Mount Shasta

Mount Shasta #60133 Purchase

I’m still editing all the new images from my recent trip to California and Oregon. However, there are some obvious highlights I’m anxious to share, this photo of Mount Shasta being one of them.

Making this photo was one of those lucky close calls. After driving south all day from Hood River Oregon I noticed some interesting clouds developing as I approached the California state line. Nearing the town of Weed CA it became apparent there would be some good light over Mount Shasta. However, I was still miles away and not familiar with the area. Taking a clue from my trusty guidebook, Photographing Northern California by Gary Crabbe, I sped down a nearby ranch road and set up my tripod just in time to make several exposures.

I’m pretty happy with the results, but further scouting the next day revealed an even better composition just a mile down the same road. There was even an exit on I-5 that could have gotten me there faster. Oh well, there’s always a next time.

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August 20, 2016February 8, 2022

Glacier Peak and Image Lake

Image Lake and Glacier Peak

Glacier Peak Image Lake #58240 Purchase

Image Lake Glacier Peak #58240 Purchase

Recently I made a five-day backpacking trip to one of my all time favorite areas in the North Cascades, Image Lake . Located in the Glacier Peak Wilderness this is one of the classic views of lake mountain glacier in the Northwest. Image Lake is rivaled only by a few other spots such as Picture Lake/Mount Shuksan, and Tipso Lake/Mount Rainier. The big difference here is that you’re not likely to run into crowds, or more than a couple other people for that matter. My last visit to this outstanding location was back in 2000 and I’ve been wanting to get back there ever since.

Glacier Peak Image Lake #58248 Purchase

Due to a series of winter floods, subsequent lack of repair funding, and environmental studies, the Suiattle River access road has been closed for nearly 12 years. I’m not very optimistic that the road will remain open for long. The whole length of the river valley is made up of ancient volcanic debris from past eruptions of Glacier Peak. During the rainy fall and winter months the river routinely eats away at this easily eroded material. Despite extensive repairs there are still several areas where the road is still very vulnerable. It won’t take much, I’m afraid, to put it out of commission again.

Hiking In

Image Lake on Miner’s Ridge is a fairly long backpacking trip that requires at least several days to justify the effort. The total roundtrip mileage is about 32 miles with 4500′ of elevation gain, most of it in the last five miles. Of course there is much more to see than just plopping down at the lake so figure on adding several more miles and another thousand feet or so of elevation to that. On all three of my visits I encountered parties that did it in two days. However, I really don’t see the point of carrying a full load that far and high to take a quick look around and head back the next day. I consider three days a minimum.

Backpacker on Canyon Creek Bridge #58176 Purchase

The first nine or ten miles travels along the Suiattle River through gorgeous old growth forest with massive trees. One of the highlights comes when crossing Canyon Creek on a very well built suspension bridge. Such a large and sturdy structure is rare in the wilderness. Horses also use this trail so it needs to be able to stand up to heavy weights. At around ten miles the real work begins, non-stop switchbacks from the river valley to the top of the ridge. Fortunately the upward grind is in the shade of forest almost all the way up. On this trip it was fairly cool with heavy overcast and fog. However, the intense humidity had me sweating like a pig while just putting my packing on! When I got to camp I was soaking with sweat.

Old Growth Forest Glacier Peak Wilderness #58192 Purchase

At The Lake

Image Lake itself is nothing to go out of your way to see. It’s a very shallow lake which has a soft sediment bottom, and is usually covered with hatching insects in summer. Image Lake is not the best for swimming, but good to cool your toes off. The real reason that makes the lake so special is its situation on Miner’s Ridge. At about 6000′ high it has a perfectly placed front row seat view of the heavily glacier-cloaked NE face of Glacier Peak. At 10,541′ Glacier Peak is the most isolated of the five volcanoes in Washington. It is definitely one of those views you could just sit for hours or days admiring. And since it so far out you’ll most likely have it to yourself! On this trip I had the whole ridge and lake basin to myself for two whole days.

Upper Suiattle River Valley from Miner’s Ridge #58279 Purchase

If you are looking for a truly extraordinary wilderness experience then spend a day or two at the lake before heading east along Miner’s Ridge. This route traverses through high meadows to Suiattle Pass and beyond to Cloudy Pass and glacier fed Lyman Lake. Nearly the entire length of the trail is above tree-line. Along the way you’ll travel through some of the most astonishing mountain scenery in the North Cascades accessible by trail. Seven to ten days would be perfect to enjoy such a trip and you’ll have memories to last a lifetime.

If you’d like to purchase prints or license any image for commercial use just click on any image or search by keyword.

Glacier Peak and Miners Ridge

Camp on Miner’s Ridge, Dome Peak in distance #58268 Purchase

Miner’s Ridge camp, Glacier Peak in distance #58317 Purchase

Miner’s Ridge and Image Lake #58322 Purchase

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September 7, 2014November 21, 2023

Mount Baker Wilderness Heliotrope Ridge

Mount Baker Wilderness Heliotrope Ridge

Coleman Glacier, Heliotrope Ridge Wildflowers #54421 Purchase

Summer is nearly over, and now that we’re in that exciting pause before the coming fall season I have some time to catch up on a few posts I’ve been too busy to work on. If you’ve been following my updates you’ll know that most of the height of summer was spent close to home. Specifically the Mount Baker Wilderness of the North Cascades. Fortunately for me, this wilderness is only an hour or two drive from my home. Practically in my backyard. During the month of August, I photographed the following areas accessed via the Mount Baker Highway:

Church Mountain
Skyline Divide
Hannegan Peak
Heliotrope Ridge
Heather Meadows Recreation Area

Mount Baker from Heliotrope Ridge #54423 Purchase

During the last week of August, I was hoping to visit one more spot that might offer good displays of wildflowers. I almost forgot about Heliotrope Ridge. It has been around twelve years since my last visit. And it’s been twenty since I taught a weekend photography workshop there through the North Cascades Institute.

Heliotrope Ridge trail is extremely popular due to the easy and close access to views of the sprawling Coleman Glacier. And also because it is the start to one of the main climbing routes to the summit of Baker. Since I’ve been there before I knew that the best wildflower meadows were up high near the edge of the glaciers and snowfields. I also knew that I would have the place to myself if I went during the week. Sure enough, during my three nights on the ridge, I saw only one other person wandering around. The few climbing parties that set up camp stuck to the glaciers with eyes on the summit.

Heliotrope Ridge Wildflowers #54537 Purchase

The wildflowers of Heliotrope Ridge were markedly different from those on the hikes to Skyline Divide and Hannegan Peak. There I came across fields mainly of valerian, lupine, corn lilies, and heather, but on Heliotrope there was a greater variety of flowers with an emphasis on yellow arnicas. Also since this area is so close to Mount Baker it receives much more snow, therefore the plants had just escaped the confines of winter and began blooming in late August while other subalpine ridges in the area were already well past peak and had gone to seed.

Another thing to do aside from gawking at the views and wildflowers is to wander cross-country, there are no trails at this point. Going west along increasingly barren slopes of mixed volcanic rock and crumbly slate there are numerous rushing snowmelt streams. If you are prepared for steep snowfield/glacier travel then continue higher up to the actual crest of Heliotrope Ridge. Here the ridge consists of a wild display of volcanic cinders jagged blocks of andesite and lava bombs, looking like it just cooled yesterday. Even better though is the view from the ridge of seldom seen Thunder Glacier and basin below Colfax and Lincoln Peaks, this is truly a wild and lonesome area of Mount Baker!

Mount Baker climber camp on Heliotrope Ridge #54432 Purchase

Heliotrope Ridge Camp Mount Baker #54518 Purchase

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