Sunset over Cape Norman on the Great Northern Peninsula. Cape Norman is the northernmost point of insular Newfoundland. Newfoundland and Labrador Canada #80455

Photographing The Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador

Photographing The Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador

Cape Norman Newfoundland #80455 Purchase

A trip to Newfoundland can be considered getting away from it all. But photographing the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador is getting away from it all on an entirely different level. To begin with, the drive from St John’s to L’Anse aux Meadows is an 11-hour 1067 km (663 miles) trip. If continuing to Labrador, add another hour for the ferry ride across the Strait of Belle Isle.

For landscape and nature photographers, photographing the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador is an opportunity to get far off the beaten path and photograph some unique subject matter. And you won’t be competing with crowds of tourists vying for the best selfies! You will be nearly alone while photographing some of the rawest natural beauty in Atlantic Canada.

This post will detail a few locations from my first visit to the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador. However, there are many more places to explore than described here.

Strait of Belle Isle sea ice #80328 Purchase

The Great Northern Peninsula

Like an elongated thumb, the Great Northern Peninsula juts northward from western Newfoundland. The predominant feature on the peninsula is the Long Range Mountains. This range is considered the geologic northern extremity of the Appalachian Mountains. Gros Morne National Park encompasses some of the most rugged parts of the Long Range Mountains. On my trip, it was too early in the season to visit this park. So, unfortunately, I do not have any images or info from the park to share here.

Further north, the Long Range dwindles to low hills sprinkled with numerous lakes and marshes. Here, the boreal forest gives way to a somewhat sub-arctic environment. And, like most other coastal areas in Newfoundland, there are many small fishing villages. The largest town and hub of the area is St. Anthony. Most amenities can be found here, along with iceberg and whale watching tour companies.

Cape Norman Newfoundland #80388 Purchase

Cape Norman

One of my trip goals was to photograph the most northerly point of Newfoundland. Maps showed that this would be Cape Norman, and fortunately, there was also some interesting subject matter there.

Cape Norman is a barren headland of limestone cliffs and wild karst formations. The entire area resembles locations much further north in the Canadian Arctic. Situated on top of the cliffs is the Cape Norman Lighthouse. The lighthouse is mildly interesting but not as photogenic as other lighthouses in Newfoundland.

Cape Norman Newfoundland #80414 Purchase

Cape Norman Newfoundland #80436 Purchase

The best subject matter at Cape Norman is the cliffs and wave-eroded slabs of rock along the surf edge. Ample compositions can be found both on the top of the headland and at the water’s edge. But if your time is limited, the surf slabs would be the better option. And, like other areas in Newfoundland, an early-season visit has the added attraction of icebergs and sea ice.

There are plenty of places for random camping around Cape Norman, so you could easily spend a few days here exploring and photographing in different lighting conditions. However, be ready to stay in windy and exposed conditions. The nearest town is St. Anthony, about an hour’s drive away, so stock up on supplies and gas.

L’Anse aux Meadows Newfoundland #80513 Purchase

L’Anse aux Meadows

Possibly, the main attraction on the Great Northern Peninsula is L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site. Here are the remains and a reconstruction of an 11th-century Viking settlement, evidence of the first European presence in North America. After getting this far north in Newfoundland, it would be a shame to miss out on such an important historical attraction.

L’Anse aux Meadows Newfoundland #80533 Purchase

L’Anse aux Meadows Newfoundland #80526 Purchase

While the site is more of an educational stop, photographers can make some decent images here if the lighting is right. It’s also best to visit in late spring or summer when the surroundings green up. On my visit, everything was still winter brown. Also, like most everything else in Newfoundland, the informative visitor’s center doesn’t open until June 1. But you can still freely roam around the area and explore the fascinating reconstructed Viking village.

Arches Provincial Park Newfoundland #80550 Purchase

Arches Provincial Park

Further south on the Great Northern Peninsula, along the Gulf of St. Lawrence coast, is Arches Provincial Park. But don’t drive all the way here expecting to see something akin to the famous Arches National Park in Utah.

This tiny park is more like a wayside stop to one small but interesting arch formation on the beach. It’s worth stopping on the way to other destinations, but photographers will need some dynamic light and surf conditions to create good images.

Labrador

For those who have traveled to the top of the Great Northern Peninsula and have time available, a trip to Labrador is a must. Labrador, or The Big Land, is a raw and wild land rich in history and culture. However, precious little of it is accessible by car. Only the extreme southeastern part of its coast has paved roads. The rest of the coast and its few settlements are accessible by boat, plane, or ferry, and only in the summer months.

Labrador Coast #80219 Purchase

The most dramatic landscapes in Labrador are in Torngat National Park, way up on the northern tip of the province. Although to tour and photograph this park, you will need a fat bank account and a serious sense of adventure.

Battle Harbour is about at the limit north for the average traveler and photographer. This historic island village is accessible by ferry, and accommodations must be booked in advance. And, again, early-season visitors will be out of luck, as their operating season begins in June. That leaves a short drive from the Ferry terminal at Blanc-Sablon north to Red Bay.

Point Amour Lighthouse Labrador #80291 Purchase

Point Amour Lighthouse and Coastal Drive

The Point Amour Lighthouse is perhaps the main attraction on this short coastal drive. It’s one of the more photogenic lighthouses in Newfoundland and has plenty of history.

On my early season visit, I was treated to more icebergs and sea ice to accentuate the compositions. But, again, the surrounding landscape was still winter brown.

Point Amour Lighthouse Labrador #80238 Purchase

Point Amour Lighthouse Labrador #80274 Purchase

North of L’Anse Amour, the road veers inland along the Pinware River. A scenic viewpoint about halfway to Red Bay is worth a brief stop. The view looks west past the Pinware River to the forbidding interior wilderness of Labrador. I imagined that this is what the landscape would look like in an unbroken wilderness as far as Hudson’s Bay, a few thousand kilometers distant.

Pinware River View Labrador #80234 Purchase

To get a better sense of the mystique of Labrador, which grips me to this day, I highly recommend reading these books.
The Lure of the Labrador Wild; Dillon Wallace 1905
Where the Falcon Flys; Adam Shoalts 2023

Strait of Belle Isle Iceberg #80294 Purchase

Essential Tips:

Coastal photography on the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador greatly benefits from the presence of icebergs and sea or pack ice.
Be prepared to be self-reliant, especially in the early season. Groceries and gas stations may be far apart.
Iceberg and whale viewing tours are available in the town of St. Anthony.
Coastal areas on the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador can be very windy and raw. Dress appropriately and use extreme caution near the cliffs.
Vegetation may not green up until mid-June.
The St. Barbe-Blanc Sablon ferry requires reservations. Early in the season, ferry crossings can be delayed or canceled due to concentrations of heavy sea ice. Click the image below to watch a short video of the crossing!

Video: Sea ice in the Strait of Belle Isle #80203

Tips for Photographing the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador

Creative Tips:

Allow enough time: One of the most important considerations when planning a photography trip to any location is time. Good photography rarely results from a hurried schedule. Chasing light is stressful, stay in one place and let the light come to you!

For your most important subject matter and locations, always try to stay at least two days. This will give you time for scouting, and also be present for several changes in lighting conditions.

Scouting: Scouting is an essential technique for better photography. Always scout out the best locations in advance by spending the day thoroughly exploring the area. Make notes of the best spots and how long it will take to reach them in the morning and evening golden hours.

Practical Tips:

When to go: Late spring through fall are all great times. However, May through early July are the best months for iceberg viewing.

Seasonal Closures: After the weather, my next introduction to Newfoundland was seasonal closures. The official summer/tourist season doesn’t begin here until June 1.

Nearly every provincial park, historic site, visitor’s center, campground, restroom, gift shop, etc., is shut tight until then. Of course, there are exceptions, but they are far and few between. On the other hand, all of this guarantees that you’ll escape the summer crowds and have most places all to yourself!

Lodging: I nearly always car camp on my photo tours, so I can’t say much about lodging. However, there are only a few large towns/cities in the province, so you’ll most likely be looking for lodging in small towns with limited accommodations. Book very early!

Camping: I didn’t find many campgrounds anywhere, aside from provincial and national parks, which were closed. However, free camping is available just about anywhere that isn’t private property. This mainly consists of gravel roads on Crown Land and trailheads.

Driving: Roads are generally very good. But I found that even main roads can be rough in some areas.

Rest Areas: There are none! I have to include this since it was such a shock to me. Even driving from St. John’s on the Trans-Canada Highway to the other end of the province there were no rest areas or port-a-potty’s. Secondary and backroads? Forget about it! Keep that in mind when starting in the morning after drinking a big mug of coffee, or that breakfast burrito!

Strait of Belle Isle sea ice #80320b Purchase

To see more of the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador, check out these galleries:
Newfoundland and Labrador 1
Newfoundland and Labrador 2

Now available: Newfoundland Sea, Sky Land, Ice Fine Art Folio

Other posts in this series:
Photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador/Cape Spear
Photographing Bonavista Peninsula Newfoundland
Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island Newfoundland

Strait of Belle Isle Iceberg #80301 Purchase

Learn about how to protect the places we love to photograph
Visit the Nature First Website

All photos appearing in Photographing the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints. Click on any image to purchase, or contact me for more info!

Photographing the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador

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January 14, 2025January 17, 2025

Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island Newfoundland

Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island Newfoundland

Fogo Island sunset #80143 Purchase

This post is the third of five posts about photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador
Twillingate and Fogo Island are arguably the focal points for many visitors to Canada’s Atlantic Province of Newfoundland and Labrador. These two destinations in north-central Newfoundland embody everything that attracts people to Newfoundland. Picturesque authentic towns, rugged coastlines, whales, and icebergs. They have an “away from everything” look and feel to them. For photographers, Twillingate and Fogo Island Newfoundland is a dream come true.

Twillingate Newfoundland #79861 Purchase

Twillingate

If you could choose only one destination to photograph in Newfoundland, I think Twillingate would be it. There is enough subject matter here to last a photographer an entire season! In spring and early summer, there are icebergs. In summer there is whale watching. And, of course, throughout the year there are beautiful coastal views and colorful fishing villages. I recommend at least three days to explore and photograph this very special area.

The town of Twillingate is about a five-hour drive from St. John’s. So plan accordingly if you’re flight arrives in St. John’s later in the day. After settling in it’s time to do some location scouting!

The area is divided into North and South Twillingate Islands. Prime locations on both islands are a short distance apart. So it’s possible to photograph both islands on the same day. During my first visit, I was able to photograph only the more well-known locations, several of which I describe here.

Tabular Iceberg off North Twillingate Island #79749 Purchase

Long Point Lighthouse North Twillingate Island #79844 Purchase

North Twillingate Island

First, take the short drive from town up to the Long Point Lighthouse on North Twillingate Island. The view from the lighthouse is spectacular and will allow you to see if there are any icebergs or pack ice in the vicinity. The lighthouse itself and the keeper’s house are very scenic. But, unfortunately, it’s difficult to take decent photos of it. However, this is a great spot to photograph the open Atlantic in dramatic light, especially if there is sea ice or bergs around.

Sea Ice in Sleepy Cove Newfoundland #80042 Purchase

The next stop is nearby Crow Head and Sleepy Cove. This is a very scenic cove with hiking trails that take you to more views and other rocky coves. I highly recommend scouting the area and photographing here during the golden hours.

There are more hiking trails all along the north edge of North Twillingate. A quick look at a map or satellite picture of the area will reveal lots of secret coves to explore.

Spiller’s Cove South Twillingate Island Newfoundland #80029 Purchase

South Twillingate Island

This island is by far the bigger of the two Twillingate islands. Some of the best areas for photography are along its northern headlands and coves. Arguably the most scenic is Spiller’s Cove. Not to be confused with Spillars Cove on the Bonavista Peninsula. Although both spellings are interchangeable, adding to the confusion. The drive to Spillars Cove from the town of Twillingate is also very scenic in itself, as you pass by numerous colorful fishing stages and homes.

Spiller’s Cove South Twillingate Island Newfoundland #79938b Purchase

Spiller’s Cove South Twillingate Island Newfoundland #80009 Purchase

Rockcut Twillingate Trails has created numerous well-maintained trails to the most scenic spots in this area, including Spillars Cove. I highly recommend thoroughly scouting out the entire length of the Spillers Cove trail in advance. There are numerous sea stacks and changing views which offer plenty of spectacular photo opportunities.

Tour boat off Long Point Newfoundland #79840 Purchase

Iceberg and Whale Watching Tours

The chance to see and photograph icebergs or whales up close is a rare and thrilling experience. Outside of incredibly expensive trips to the Arctic or Antarctica, there aren’t many opportunities. Newfoundland brings iceberg viewing within reach to the average traveler.

Tabular Iceberg Twillingate Newfoundland #79805 Purchase

Throughout Newfoundland, there are many choices for iceberg and whale watching tours. During my visit to Twillingate, I chose Iceberg Quest. My tour was very enjoyable, and I came back with many new iceberg images. The tour operators went out of their way to make sure everyone had plenty of photo ops.

Iceberg Twillingate Newfoundland #79810 Purchase

Tips for Photographing on Iceberg Tours:

First, make sure to check and see if there are any decent bergs in the area. Always check Iceberg Finder for daily updates on where the icebergs are.
Tour operators generally take you to bergs close to shore. On my visit, there were a couple of impressive icebergs further out near the pack ice. They were too far and we didn’t get to photograph them.
If you go too early in the season, tour companies may not be operating. Although I was in Twillingate in mid-May, the harbor became ice-free only a few days earlier. So, my tour was one of the first of the season.
Dress warmly! Once you get out on the water it can get very chilly.
Wear a camera strap. Passengers are always hustling about on the deck to get a good photo. It’s very easy to get bumped and lose your camera overboard.
Always use vibration reduction on your lens. Tripods are not practical on the boat.

Lighthouse Island Newfoundland #80152 Purchase

Fogo Island

Fogo Island is one of the premier destinations in Newfoundland. It is a wild and windswept island with an almost sub-arctic look and feel of more northerly locations in Labrador. Fogo is home to numerous artists’ studios and a distinctive world-class hotel. This small island also has numerous coastal hiking trails, colorful villages, fishing stages, and cultural attractions. Iceberg and whale-watching tours are also available on Fogo.

Fishing Stage Fogo Island #80095 Purchase

Tower Studio Fogo Island #80095 Purchase

Fogo Island is also about a five-hour drive from St. John’s. But, in addition, it also has a 45-minute ferry crossing which requires reservations. Accommodations are numerous, from camping to luxury rooms. Most essentials can be found in the towns of Fogo and Joe Batt’s arm.

Lion’s Den Trail Fogo Island #80141 Purchase

For landscape and nature photographers, the best opportunities are along the north coast trails, notably the Lion’s Den, Fogo Head, and Joe Batt’s Point trails. However, other great subjects on Fogo for photographers are several modernist-style art studios and the Fogo Inn.

Town of Fogo Newfoundland #80194 Purchase

Essential Tips:

Coastal photography on Twillingate and Fogo Island greatly benefits from the presence of icebergs and sea or pack ice.
Both Twillingate and Fogo Island are great areas to photograph long-exposure seascapes. Bring Big and or Little Stopper Neutral Density Filters, or their equivalent.
Iceberg and whale viewing tours are available in the town of Twillingate.
Like most of coastal Newfoundland, the cliffs and headlands here can be very windy. Dress appropriately and use extreme caution near the cliffs.
The town of Twillingate has plenty of lodging, restaurants, groceries, and other amenities available. It makes a perfect base to explore the area for several days.
The Fogo Island ferry requires reservations. It’s a long drive to the landing, so allow plenty of time to get there.

Iceberg Twillingate Newfoundland #79884 Purchase

Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island Newfoundland

Creative Tips:

For your most important subject matter and locations, always try to stay at least two days. This will give you time for scouting and also be present for several changes in lighting conditions.

Scouting: Scouting is an essential technique for better photography. Always scout out the best locations in advance by spending the day hiking as many trails as possible. Make notes of the best spots and how long it will take to reach them in the morning and evening golden hours.

Practical Tips:

When to go: Late spring through fall are all great times. However, May through early July are the best months for iceberg viewing.

Seasonal Closures: After the weather, my next introduction to Newfoundland was seasonal closures. The official summer/tourist season doesn’t begin here until June 1.

Driving: Roads are generally very good. But I found that in some areas even main roads can be a bit rough.

Spiller’s Cove South Twillingate Island Newfoundland #80029 Purchase

To see more images check out these galleries:
Newfoundland and Labrador 1
Newfoundland and Labrador 2

Now available: Newfoundland Sea, Sky Land, Ice Fine Art Folio

Other posts in this series:
Photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador/Cape Spear
Photographing Bonavista Peninsula Newfoundland

Learn about how to protect the places we love to photograph
Visit the Nature First Website

All photos appearing in Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island Newfoundland are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints. Click on any image to purchase, or contact me for more info!

Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island Newfoundland

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July 17, 2023January 17, 2025

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula Newfoundland

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula Newfoundland

Cape Bonavista Newfoundland #79571 Purchase

This post is the second of several detailing and giving tips for photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador.

Canada’s Atlantic province of Newfoundland and Labrador has some of the most beautiful rugged coastlines in all of North America. And the Central Region of Newfoundland arguably has some of the scenic coastal areas in the province. A visitor can spend weeks exploring the area’s countless coves, peninsulas, inlets, and villages. All of these features are perfect for capturing another famous attraction, icebergs. Riding the Labrador Current down Iceberg Alley many of these icebergs and packs of sea ice end up trapped in the maze of inlets. From May through June icebergs of all sizes and shapes can often be seen moving along the coast or grounded in coves.

For Photographers traveling to Newfoundland for the first time, Bonavista Peninsula, Twillingate Islands, and Fogo Island are great places to photograph icebergs. But there is also much more to photograph. Colorful fishing villages, puffin colonies, historic sites, and spectacular coastal trails, to name a few.

Cape Bonavista Lighthouse Newfoundland #79620 Purchase

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula: Cape Bonavista

On my recent photo tour of Newfoundland and Labrador, the Bonavista Peninsula was one of my first main stops. At the head of the peninsula, Cape Bonavista has several great spots for photography. Firstly, there is the squat red and white striped Cape Bonavista Lighthouse. This very photogenic lighthouse sits above the edge of the cape, with the best angles just below its western side. Many photographers also include an old red shack and a wooden fence in disrepair. If there is no wind present good photos can be made of the lighthouse during blue hour light.

Adjacent to it is a monument to John Cabot’s historic first landing on North America in 1497. Although he landed in Newfoundland in 1497, the exact location is still undetermined and disputed.

Dungeon Provincial Park Newfoundland #79637 Purchase

South of the lighthouse on the unpaved Dungeon/Lance Cove Road are numerous excellent places to pull over and just gaze in wonder at the scenery. This road follows a rugged coastline with endless sea stacks and mini coves. One of the highlights here is Dungeon Provincial Park with its angry-looking double sea cave. This is also a UNESCO Discovery Global Geopark site.

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula: The Klondike Trail

A few miles further south is Spillars Cove and the Klondike Trail. The Klondike Trail traverses some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Newfoundland. It traverses the edge of cliffs with incredible views high above the Atlantic. The terrain is a mixture of rocks, heather, mosses, and grass reminiscent of Scotland, or the Arctic.

Cable John Cove Newfoundland #79648 Purchase

At its east end the trail winds around Cable John Cove. For photographers, this cove is where some of the best compositions are, including The Chimney, an eye-popping tall and slender sea stack, which is also a UNESCO Discovery Global Geopark site. A small colony of Atlantic Puffins also nests on a seas tack in this cove.

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula: Elliston and Puffins

A few miles further south on the main road is the picturesque town of Elliston. Also known as “The Root Cellar Capitol of the World” with 133 documented root cellars. A few of them, like the ones near the puffin viewing site, are worth photographing. The town also has a memorial to the 251 sealers who lost their lives in the Sealing Disaster of 1914. In addition, there is the John C. Crosbie Sealers Interpretation Center. It exists to help bring to life the lives and hardships of sealers in a bygone era. Unfortunately, it was still closed for the season during my visit.

Puffin Colony Elliston Newfoundland #79588

But the real attraction here is the puffin viewing site. The site offers the closest accessible views of a colony of nesting puffins in all of North America. Atlantic Puffins are also the official bird of the province of Newfoundland and Labrador. A short trail leads to a wonderful cliff-edge view of these squat comical seabirds.

Although on my trip in May, I didn’t see any icebergs in the Bonavista area this is a good location to photograph them. May, June, and early are the prime months to see them throughout Newfoundland and Labrador. Check out Iceberg Finder to keep track of current sightings.

Cable John Cove Newfoundland #79713 Purchase

Essential Tips:

Cape Bonavista is a great area to photograph long-exposure seascapes. Bring a Big and or Little Stopper Neutral Density Filter, or their equivalent.
For photographing Puffins, you’ll need at least a 200mm lens. For isolating individual birds a 400mm lens would be the minimum. The photo appearing in this post is heavily cropped from a photo using a 200mm lens.
Cape Bonavista is a good location for both morning/sunrise light and evening/sunset light.
Iceberg and whale viewing tours are available in the town of Bonavista.
Like most of coastal Newfoundland, the Bonavista Peninsula can be very windy. Dress appropriately and be extremely cautious near cliffs.
There is ample free primitive camping at John Cabot Municipal Park adjacent to the lighthouse and along the Dungeon/Lance Cove Road.
The town of Bonavista has plenty of lodging and all standard amenities.

Cape Bonavista Peninsula #79693 Purchase

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula Newfoundland

Creative Tips:

For your most important subject matter and locations, always try to stay at least two days. This will give you time for scouting, and also be present for several changes in lighting conditions.

Practical Tips:

When to go: Late spring through fall are all great times. However, May through early July are the best months for iceberg viewing.

Seasonal Closures: After the weather, my next introduction to Newfoundland was seasonal closures. The official summer/tourist season doesn’t begin here until June 1.

Driving: Roads are generally very good. But I found that even main roads can be rough in some areas.

Cable John Cove Bonavista Peninsula #79695 Purchase

To see more images check out these galleries:
Newfoundland and Labrador 1
Newfoundland and Labrador 2

Now available: Newfoundland Sea, Sky Land, Ice Fine Art Folio

Other posts in this series:
Photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador/Cape Spear
Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island

Learn about how to protect the places we love to photograph
Visit the Nature First Website

All photos appearing in Photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador/ Cape Spear are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints. Click on any image to purchase, or contact me for more info!

Photographing in Newfoundland

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July 9, 2023January 17, 2025

Photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador/ Cape Spear

Photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador/Cape Spear

Cape Spear Newfoundland #79487 Purchase

This post is the first of several detailing and giving tips for photographing in Newfoundland and Labrador.

Canada’s Atlantic Province of Newfoundland and Labrador is a destination that will thrill any photographer. It has many characteristics of more popular North Atlantic destinations, such as Scotland and Iceland, including miles of beautiful rugged coastline, colonies of seabirds, and quaint towns with a rich cultural history. It also has very friendly locals with delightfully unique accents. But unfortunately Newfoundland doesn’t have active volcanoes or haggis.

Newfoundland and Labrador also have one other big attraction that the aforementioned destinations don’t: Icebergs. Throughout the year, the Labrador Current reliably transports icebergs from Greenland and the Arctic down Iceberg Alley, to the coast of Newfoundland. The ever-changing shapes and sizes of the bergs provide an additional element of drama to photo compositions. And considering the exorbitant cost of travel to the high Arctic or Antarctica, photographing icebergs in Newfoundland is a hard-to-pass-up bargain!

Iceberg and Pack Ice Newfoundland #79746 Purchase

This spring, I was able to plan my first extended trip to Newfoundland and Labrador. I began by compiling a list of subject matter I wanted to photograph. Topping the list were icebergs, rugged coastlines, seabird colonies, lighthouses, and finally, fishing villages. After countless hours of poring over maps, tourism websites, and extensive Google searches, I came up with a rough itinerary. As always, I built in lots of flexibility to work around bad weather and other unforeseen circumstances.

I had 24 days allotted for photographing in Newfoundland, and the plan was to fly to St. John’s and then drive to my main destinations of Bonavista Peninsula, Twillingate, and Fogo Island. If time allows, I would take a ferry to Labrador, then return to photograph L’anse Aux Meadows and surrounding areas. Lastly came several locations on the Avalon Peninsula south of St. John’s. In the end, I photographed nearly every location and subject on my list.

Cape Spear Lighthouse Newfoundland #79534 Purchase

Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site

Since I was flying into St. John’s I wanted my first destination to be nearby so I could get my bearings after a long travel day. Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site was the logical choice, as it was just outside of the city and very photogenic. It turned out to be a great choice and also a harsh introduction to Newfoundland weather.

My home in Bellingham, Washington, and St. John’s are nearly the same latitude. But while at home, there was beautiful spring weather, Newfoundland was still gripped in late winter conditions. Temperatures were in the low 40s, vegetation was still winter brown, and the wind was nonstop and piercing cold. I was glad all my winter clothing came with me!

Cape Spear is a headland on the eastern edge of the Avalon Peninsula. It is also the easternmost point of land in Canada and the North American continent, excluding Greenland. It is so far east that you can almost imagine seeing Ireland on the horizon. There is a lot to see at Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site. It sports two picturesque but distinctly different historic lighthouses. The site also has a WWII gun battery and radar station. You can also start for a hike on the East Coast Trail or just sit and watch for whales.

Cape Spear also has a visitor center with guided tours of the lighthouses. However, these amenities, and every other throughout Newfoundland and Labrador, as I was to find out, were still closed for the season.

Cape Spear Lighthouse Newfoundland #79521 Purchase

Photographing at Cape Spear

Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site and the immediate surrounding area can be explored in a few hours. The lighthouses, of course, are the main attractions for photographers. But hiking a mile or so north or south from the parking lot on the East Coast Trail is also rewarding with additional photo opportunities.

Essential Tip: This is a location that is good for both morning/sunrise and evening/sunset light. If the weather is poor and you have time, like I did, it’s worth trying to stick around an extra day or two for good light.

Cape Spear Lighthouse Newfoundland #79526 Purchase

Essential Tip: There are many elements here that you can utilize for excellent compositions. Most notably, the stairs on the trail to and below the lighthouses and the white picket fence along the original upper lighthouse. The bedrock along the bluff, which glows reddish brown in evening and morning light, is also worth including.

Essential Tip: You’re nearly guaranteed to have windy conditions here, so make sure to bring a sturdy tripod. And don’t forget to bring a warm, windproof jacket or coat. Leave your hat in the car because it’ll easily be blown away. In fact, use utmost caution along the top of the bluffs as the winds can easily be strong enough to blow you and or your gear over the cliffs! There are a few compositions here that can tempt photographers to inch dangerously close to the edge.

Cape Bay Newfoundland #79492 Purchase

Back down at Cape Bay, it’s worth hiking a short way to Cantwells Cove. The slanted rock formations here and the finger-like inlets are great in the right light, especially for sunrise.

Aside from a steady tripod, lenses from ultra-wide to telephoto will come in handy. Seabirds aren’t plentiful at Cape Spear, but if whales are present, a long telephoto could be useful.

Cape Spear Lighthouse Newfoundland #79461 Purchase

Practicalities for Photographing in Newfoundland

Since this was my first photo tour of Newfoundland and Labrador, I don’t profess to be an expert on the location. However, as you might expect, I did come away with some very useful information to pass on.

Weather: Newfoundland and Labrador weather has a temperate marine climate. Summer temperatures are generally cooler and rarely hot and humid. During my trip in May, the wind, sometimes very strong and sustained, was a nearly constant companion. Temperatures reached into the low 60s on only a few rare days and were mostly in the 40s to low 50s. One morning in Twillingate I even woke up to an inch of snow!

Warm wind and rainproof clothing are essential. Boggy, marshy terrain is present nearly everywhere in the province, so good waterproof footwear is also a must.

Pack Ice Twillingate Island Newfoundland #79988 Purchase

Icebergs: Research advised me that May through June was the best time for viewing icebergs. That appears to be true, but I could add a bit to that. In addition to icebergs, there was quite a lot of pack ice present in some locations, which added another dramatic element to my images. Pack ice is most likely an early-season phenomenon and not present during summer. It also moves around quite a bit, especially when the wind changes direction. One day a cove can be choked with ice, and the next day it can be completely free of it.

Coastal areas of central Newfoundland, such as Twillingate, appear to receive the lion’s share of icebergs. There are many iceberg boat tour companies in the area, and I highly advise booking a tour on one. You’ll safely get much closer to bergs this way, and it’s fascinating to see one up close.

Iceberg Finder is an excellent source to keep track of where iceberg are located before, during, and after a Newfoundland visit.

Cape Race Road Newfoundland #80608 Purchase

Traveling while Photographing in Newfoundland

Seasonal Closures: After the weather, seasonal closures were my next introduction to Newfoundland. The official summer/tourist season doesn’t begin here until June 1.

Nearly every provincial park, historic site, visitor’s center, campground, restroom, gift shop, etc., is shut tight until then. Of course, there are exceptions, but they are far and few between. On the other hand, all of this pretty much guarantees that you’ll escape the summer crowds and have most places all to yourself!

Lodging: Since I nearly always car camp on my photo tours, I can’t say much about lodging. However, there are only a few large towns/cities in the province, so you’ll most likely be looking for lodging in very small towns with limited accommodations. Book very early!

Rest Areas: There are none! I have to include this since it was such a shock to me. Even driving from St. John’s on the Trans-Canada Highway to the other end of the province there was not one rest area or port-a-potty. Secondary and backroads? Forget about it! Keep that in mind when starting out in the morning after drinking a big mug of coffee, or that breakfast burrito!

To see more images check out these galleries:
Newfoundland and Labrador 1
Newfoundland and Labrador 2

Now available: Newfoundland Sea, Sky Land, Ice Fine Art Folio

Other posts in this series:
Photographing Bonavista Peninsula Newfoundland
Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island

Cape Bonavista Sunset Newfoundland #79565 Purchase

Learn about how to protect the places we love to photograph
Visit the Nature First Website

Photographing in Newfoundland

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April 8, 2023March 23, 2024

Photography News Spring 2023

Lime Kiln Point Lighthouse SanJuan Island #79304 Purchase

This spring I have some very exciting photography news to share with everyone. Although it has been a while since my last post, a lot has been going on behind the scenes. Among the photography news are new image additions, new locations scheduled, and a field class with North Cascades Institute.

New Locations Scheduled for Spring 2023

Vancouver Island British Columbia. This month we will be photographing in Ucluelet on the coast of Vancouver Island. Although I live within viewing distance of Vancouver Island this will be our first photography trip there. Over the years I’ve mainly photographed coastal areas of Washington and Oregon. So the beaches, sea stacks, and coves of the Ucluelet area will be a real treat!

Newfoundland. In May I will be spending most of the month photographing along Newfoundland’s Iceberg Alley. My last trip to Canada’s Atlantic Provinces was in Nova Scotia in 2016. But even before that trip, I’ve been itching to visit Newfoundland

May and June are the optimal months for viewing icebergs along the coast. So, hopefully, I’ll be in the right place at the right time to see and photograph some large bergs. While icebergs are high on my shoot list there is plenty more subject matter available. Below are some of the locations I have so far penciled in.

Twillingate
Fogo Island
Bonavista Peninsula
L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site
Cape Spear
Gros Morne National Park

New Images

There is also some exciting news in the new images department. Check out the New Additions gallery to see selections from these recently added locations.

Orcas Island
San Juan Island
Deception Pass State Park
Bellingham Bay

Cattle Point sunset San Juan Island #79196 Purchase

Deception Pass #78952 Purchase

In addition, I’ve also been busy working on some entirely new and fun subject matter. During the dreary winter days this year, I began working on some studio setups of culinary still life. Although I’m primarily a landscape and nature photographer, this subject matter harkens back to my days working in commercial photography studios in Chicago.

Spices and dried orange slices #79064 Purchase

You can see some of the first additions in the Culinary Still Life gallery.

Outdoor Field Class

On Saturday, June 3 I will lead a one-day field class through the North Cascades Institute. Entitled Mindful Photography at Baker Lake this class will be a continuation of the same class I lead in 2021. The course will emphasize using photography to see and interact with the natural environment.

Old-Growth Forest North Cascades #700662 Purchase

Baker Lake in the spring is an ideal location for this course. Walking along an easy trail we’ll pass through forests of giant old-growth trees, rushing streams and waterfalls, and spring wildflowers.

This class has a limit of 15 participants, so sign up early!

New Fine Art Print Paper

Lastly on the photo news list is an update to my Fine Art Print offerings. For those opting for a fine art print that will be matted and framed, I’ve replaced traditional chromogenic prints made on Fuji Crystal Archive paper with a Giclee-style paper.

I’ve always been partial to the look and feel of old-style darkroom prints made on fiber-based paper. So after conducting some testing, I’ve chosen to offer prints made using Hahnemühle Photo Rag Baryta. It is widely available in all the sizes I offer. And it is one of the highest quality giclee papers available, with a very heavy weight and soft luster finish, characteristics that resemble traditional silver gelatin darkroom prints.

Photography News Spring 2023

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June 13, 2020January 15, 2025

Oregon Coast Photography Trip

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area #44164 Purchase

This week we will be leaving for a ten-day photo shoot on the Oregon Coast. Our usual plan is to photograph coastal locations in April or early May but this year we had to postpone it for obvious reasons. However, after several months of enduring Stay-at-home orders filled with endless home improvement projects, we can’t wait to hit the road again and get back to work!

At this writing, only about half of Oregon State parks along the coast are open for camping. So we’re a bit limited on our options. Fortunately, a few choice locations are open, enabling us to photograph some areas we haven’t visited in a number of years. We will be starting at Shore Acres State Park with its whimsical sandstone cliff formations, and Bandon Beach‘s iconic sea-stacks. Then we’ll move north to the Oregon Dunes, and finally on to the Cannon Beach area.

Shore Acres State Park Oregon #48703

If you’re also visiting any of these areas at the same time let me know, I’d love to meet up and chat!

While this long-awaited trip to the Oregon Coast is exciting in its own right, it’s only just the beginning. Several days after returning home I’ll be leaving on an extended photo tour of the Rocky Mountains. In some ways, it will be a continuation of last year’s epic trip to the Idaho Sawtooths and Wyomings Wind River Range.

Bandon Beach Oregon #48491 Purchase

This trip will be backpacking oriented and destinations are still in the planning stage. However, they most likely will include the White Cloud Wilderness of Idaho, Wind River Range, and Bob Marshall Wilderness of Montana. If time and conditions allow a few backcountry spots in Glacier National Park may be included. After returning from the Oregon Coast I’ll post a formal announcement for this trip.

Cannon Beach from Ecola State Park Oregon #5627b Purchase

All photos appearing in Oregon Coast Photography Trip are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints

Want to learn more? Take your Creative Photography to the next level with Private Instruction and Guided Photo Tours.

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Lime Kiln Lighthouse San Juan Island Washington

April 5, 2019November 14, 2022

Lime Kiln Point State Park

Lime Kiln Point State Park

Lighthouse at Lime Kiln Point#64955 Purchase

Lime Kiln Point State Park is located on the west side of San Juan Island in the San Juan Islands of Washington State. Facing Haro Strait and Vancouver Island, the park is one of the best spots in the world to view wild killer whales from the land.

The park is not very large, and it isn’t a quick drive destination. In fact, it can take a bit of prior planning to make a trip worthwhile. This is mainly due to the need to take a ferry to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. Since the park and ferry terminal are on opposite sides of the island you’ll also need to take your vehicle along for the ride. But don’t think you can just drive up to the terminal and be loaded on the ferry! The San Juan Islands are a very popular destination, especially on summer weekends. So to avoid ruining your outing you’ll need to reserve a spot in advance. Scroll down to the bottom of this post for some travel tips!

Killer Whales off San Juan Island

Marine Life

If you’re visiting Lime Kiln Point for viewing marine life you won’t be disappointed. The surrounding waters are home to the Southern Resident Killer Whales. They are a group of about 75 killer whales, or orcas, that live for most of the year in this part of the Salish Sea. Aside from orcas, sea lions, seals, porpoises, and minke whales frequent these waters. On our visit, there were numerous sea lions playing close to the shore. But don’t expect close-up personal views of orcas, they swim farther offshore. Bring your binoculars or spotting scope for good views, predictably we forgot ours. The photo above is from several years ago on a whale-watching tour.

It should be noted here that the Southern Resident Killer Whales are considered an endangered species. Their population has dropped from 85 to 75 individuals in recent years. This is mainly due to a drastic reduction of their prime food source, coho salmon. Their situation is compounded by numerous other factors, including increased stress due to noise levels from pleasure boats and freighter traffic. To learn more please check out the Center for Whale Research.

Roche Harbor #64910 Purchase

Touring San Juan Island

The park was our main destination for photos, but since we arrived early we had all day to explore the entire island for more subject matter. Another lighthouse at Cattle Point at the southern tip of the island was on my shoot list. However, the lighting conditions there we not very good so I’ll need to return in the future to photograph it.

Roche Harbor is a historic seaside resort town on the northwest tip of San Juan Island. Here can be found Hotel De Haro, the state’s oldest continually operating hotel, in business since 1886. Judging by the looks of it Roche Harbor is the go-to destination for the yachting crowd. There is plenty of lodging and dining here, along with a general store well stocked with a variety of wines.

While on San Juan Island you can also check out English Camp and American Camp. These are part of San Juan Island National Historical Park. Not many people know that The United States and Great Britain nearly went to war in 1859 over possession of the island. The only casualty of this near conflict was a pig. Thus the incident went down in history to be known as The Pig War.

Salish Sea Container Ship #64926 Purchase

Photographing at Lime Kiln

After our short tour of the Island, we drove back to Lime the park in time for evening light and sunset. The lighthouse is the most obvious subject matter here. However, there are also great views south of the Olympic Mountains. I found them to work well as a backdrop for telephoto shots of freighters, and also on their own. Of course, there is also marine life. You’ll need a good telephoto lens for photographing killer whales.

Lime Kiln Point Lighthouse #64939 Purchase

The lighthouse photographs are best in the evening and sunset. There are plenty of excellent spots on the rocky shore to set up different compositions. A variety of focal lengths will work here, from wide to short telephotos. The classic south-side view of the lighthouse will be illuminated much better in winter when the sun is further south. However, at that time you’ll need to create a wide panoramic to include the sunset and structure in the same frame. In summer the north side will be in sunlight. Then you can photograph the lighthouse looking south with the Olympic Mountains as a backdrop. Unfortunately from this angle, there are few spots to set up your tripod, so getting a good composition may be difficult.

Lime Kiln Lighthouse #64906 Purchase

How to get to Lime Kiln Point

As mentioned above, you’ll need to review the ferry schedule carefully and reserve a vehicle spot in advance. You can still drive on without a reservation, but I definitely wouldn’t recommend it. On a Friday or Saturday in summer it appears like everyone in the state is going to the islands. You won’t need a reservation if you are just walking on or taking a bicycle. But remember the park is not within walking distance from the ferry terminal at Friday Harbor.

San Juan Islands Ferry #64889 Purchase

There are two ferry routes to Friday Harbor, one is a direct nonstop passage from Anacortes. The other makes three stops, at Lopez Island, Orcas Island, and Shaw Island. If you have the time I recommend the latter. It’s a much longer passage but more scenic as the ferry sails past numerous picturesque islands. If possible, try to time your return ferry passage for the evening before sunset. There are excellent photo opportunities then, with the islands and Mount Baker bathed in warm light!

Thanks for reading this post, I hope you enjoyed it. Please consider sharing it with friends family and colleagues!

All photos on this post are available as fine art prints and for commercial licensing.

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Wildcat Cove Samish Bay Sunset Larrabee State Park

February 2, 2019November 14, 2022

Bellingham Bay Samish Bay

Bellingham Bay Samish Bay

Taylor Dock Boardwalk, Bellingham WA #64663 #Purchase

2018 is turning out to be a year of new beginnings. Along with the launching of my new website comes this first blog post of the year, featuring several new images. These new photos are even more special in that are the first made using an entirely new camera system.

Last week during a brief window of decent weather I took a short break from working on the new website. This break enabled me to finally get out in the field to test out my new Nikon D850 camera system and a couple new filters. I find reading and writing reviews of photo gear a huge bore. So, if you’re interested in my opinions of the D850 you can contact me. I’ll be happy to share my first impressions.

The first photo above is from Boulevard Park, along Bellingham Bay. Aside from the new camera and lens, this was my first photo using a Lee Big Stopper filter. For those not familiar, the Big Stopper is a neutral density filter that dramatically increases the length of exposure. This extended shutter speed results in any movement becoming blurred. In the case above, the sky and water took on a silky texture. Photographing after sunset during the “Blue Hour” adds to the mood with cooler saturated tones.

Larrabee State Park

Wildcat Cove Sunset, Larrabee State Park #64680 Purchase

The next day I decided to head down to one of my favorite local winter destinations, Larrabee State Park. Usually I stop by Clayton Beach on the south end of the park. However, since I’ve made numerous photos from that great location I decided to check out Wildcat Cove beach. I haven’t been there for many years and I forgot how scenic it can be.

Wildcat Cove Sunset, Larrabee State Park #64695 Purchase

The tide was going out, exposing some interesting and extremely slippery rocks. The winter light was also warm and pleasant with some nice wispy high clouds. Since it was mid-week there weren’t many people. So it was nice to leisurely set up my gear and make a few photos as the sun went down.

I wanted to get in more practice with the Lee Filters so I made couple more tries. Exposures of even a few minutes long seem to take forever when it’s getting dark and cold!

Wildcat Cove Sunset, Larrabee State Park #64696

Want to Learn More?

Would you like to learn more about photography? I offer full day, half day, and multi-day photo tours and instruction. Check out my Private Instruction/Tours page for more info, or contact me directly. I would love to help you take your photography to the next level and shoot like a pro!

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October 23, 2017January 11, 2025

Bluenose Coast Nova Scotia

Blue Rocks Nova Scotia #58819 Purchase

Bluenose Coast Nova Scotia

In my last post, I left off with our departure from Cape Breton Island Nova Scotia. In this post, I’ll be talking about our visit to the Bluenose Coast of Nova Scotia. This area of Nova Scotia has been high on my photography wish list for many years. Bluenose Coast contains some of the most famous tourist attractions in the Province. Situated southwest of Halifax the area includes Peggy’s Cove, and the lovely coastal villages of Chester, Mahone Bay, Lunenburg, and Blue Rocks. How the term Bluenose originated is up for debate, some say it is a derisive term dating to political divisions of the late eighteenth century. However, others will say it refers to a bluish variety of potato or the nose color of locals in winter.

Blue Rocks, Nova Scotia #58804 Purchase

Our drive from Cape Breton Island down to the Bluenose Coast was again a long tiring journey. Not only was the weather rainy discouraging, but the route we took was also longer than anticipated. Instead of taking a direct course via the main highway, we decided on a more scenic drive along the coast. While I won’t say this was a mistake we did find the road to be exceedingly long with very few coastal views. Most of the way traveled through heavily forested lands dotted with tiny villages. Occasionally the roads break out on the coast with views of numerous islands. According to our travel brochures, this area northeast of Halifax is a haven for wilderness-loving sea kayakers. I’d love to be able to return and explore this vast area with a boat.

The Fo’c’sle Pub Chester, Nova Scotia #58700

At Chester

Between the rain and the torturous road, we decided to finish the drive to Bluenose Coast the next day. We weren’t too thrilled at the prospect of finding our way through the Halifax area at night. After anxiously getting through Halifax in the morning we decided to base our stay at Graves Island Provincial Park. Well situated near all the sites I was hoping to photograph, Graves Island also had some of the best campsites on our trip. After setting up camp we went on to check out the nearby town of Chester. Founded in 1759, Chester is a quaint village on Mahone Bay noted for stately old homes and a thriving artist community. Along with a boat-filled harbor, Chester is also home to The Fo’c’sle, Nova Scotia’s oldest pub. I couldn’t resist photographing the whimsical dragon hanging above the entrance.

After a few weeks of photographing mostly nature-oriented locations, we were finally in Coleen’s environment. Picturesque coastal towns with lots of shops to browse through were something she had been looking forward to. Although I’m mostly a wilderness nature lover I also was enjoying the change. The next day was perhaps the most memorable of the entire trip. It was a big day with lots of sites to see and photograph on the Bluenose Coast. We began it with breakfast at The Kiwi Cafe in Chester, a colorful establishment with great food, after which we proceeded to Lunenburg and Blue Rocks. Along the way, we passed by Oak Island, the site of questionable buried treasure, made famous on the History Channel’s Curse of Oak Island tv show. Needless to say, we didn’t stop by to check it out.

Mahone Bay Sailboats #58726 Purchase

Mahone Bay & Lunenburg

Along the way, we had to stop in the town of Mahone Bay for the annual Scarecrow Festival and antique fair. Even without the festival, the town is worth a stop. Dating back to 1754, Mahone Bay has numerous eclectic boutiques, art studios, antique shops, B&Bs, and restaurants. Of course with the festival in full swing Mahone Bay was overflowing with tourists, including us. We ended up spending several hours there checking out shops and the over 250 whimsical handmade scarecrows. But we had to move on, I was anxious to scout Lunenburg and the tiny fishing community of Blue Rocks. Aside from Peggy’s Cove these two locations are perhaps the most scenic and photographed in all of Nova Scotia.

Mahone Bay Scarecrows #58715

Lunenburg is yet another old historic fishing town. In my mind, it was the most interesting one we visited. The town sits on a gentle hill overlooking the bay, with many of the historic buildings sporting vibrant colors. For photographers looking to capture these colorful buildings on the waterfront, there is no better spot than a park directly across the bay. You have the option of photographing from the waterfront or up a hill on the edge of a golf course. The latter offers a wonderful elevated view of the town and boats.

Colorful Lunenburg Architecture #58737 Purchase

Blue Rocks Fishing Community

After finding these locations and making a few photos we went on to scout Blue Rocks. Being new to the area it was a bit difficult to find among the maze of roads. However, there was no mistaking it on arrival. Blue Rocks is just a small community with several fishing shacks and boats on a calm inlet. The location though is classic, old colorful fishing shacks, and boats moored alongside with islands and the Atlantic as a backdrop. And the rocks are blue, with the layers eroded into fantastic shapes. With crystal-clear water and bright yellow skirts of seaweed, the rocks boats, and buildings present a dazzling array of colors and shapes. I was bubbling over excitement at photographing this wonderful location! The only thing missing though were clouds, the sky was an empty electric blue. Perfect for picnics and leisurely drives but not for photography.

Blue Rocks, Nova Scotia #58778 Purchase

It was still early so we went back to Lunenburg to check out the town and have a bite to eat. We found another gem at the tiny Salt Shaker Deli. I would highly recommend stopping by if you are in the area. The food was wonderful, probably the best seafood chowder in the Province, and the friendly staff and outstanding harbor view made for a memorable experience. And if this wasn’t enough, as we were finishing our meal I noticed some interesting clouds moving in!

Blue Rocks Rainbow #58795 Purchase

Blue Rocks Evening Photography

We planned to head back to Blue rocks after dinner for evening light, and then hurry back to Lunenburg to photograph the waterfront at twilight. Arriving at Blue Rocks the sky darkened and rain began to come down in sheets. A complete opposite of the earlier sunny blue sky. I was getting discouraged at my prospects when the showers began to move on. The elements for some great evening light were beginning to come together. Firstly a rainbow began to take shape, followed by curtains of rain and clouds being illuminated by the setting sun. Moving around I found many compositions among the boats and fishing shacks. As the light began to peak and fade I worked to photograph one of the most iconic shacks in the last glowing light of the evening. So far this was the best combination of light and subject matter on the trip.

Blue Rocks, Nova Scotia #58807 Purchase

Blue Rocks, Nova Scotia #58825 Purchase

Blue Rocks, Nova Scotia #58811 Purchase

We were also able to get back to the Lunenburg location in time for more photography. I quickly set up and made some photos just as the lights began to turn on in town with a purple twilight glowing above. All in all, it was a perfect autumn day, sightseeing in historic towns with Coleen, great meals, and successful photography. But there was more in store for us along the Bluenose Coast the next day at Peggy’s Cove, our final location in Nova Scotia.

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia #58836 Purchase

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October 2, 2017May 19, 2024

Cape Breton Island Nova Scotia

Cape Breton Island seaside farm #58624 Purchase

It’s funny how life can be so unpredictable. Some may be tempted to replace “funny” with frustrating, discouraging, exciting, or fun. Last year at this time I was on a dream trip with my wife Coleen to photograph in Nova Scotia and New England. This year I’m stuck at home in the office, working on marketing and fantasizing about future trips. So since I’m not able to get out on the road anytime soon, the next best thing is to relive last year’s trip by writing blog posts.

In my last post, I wrote about our brief visit to the Bay of Fundy in New Brunswick. In this post, I’ll be recapping our visit to Cape Breton Island Nova Scotia, one of the main highlights and destinations of the trip. As with any new location I hoped to see as much of the province as possible. We had to carefully choose only a few of the best locations to visit in our available time. After years of poring over Nova Scotia maps and images, I settled on a couple of areas. For me, Cape Breton Island and Peggy’s Cove Coastal Region were obvious choices. Cape Breton Island represented the rugged wind-swept character of Canada’s Atlantic Provinces. While Peggy’s Cove Region highlights the historic and thriving culture of the province. There is, of course, much more to see, but these locations will make a good start.

Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia #58622 Purchase

Onwards to Cape Breton Island

After leaving New Brunswick we drove straight to our first destination, Cape Breton Highlands National Park. On the map, it looked like about a half-day drive. In reality, it took us most of the day to arrive, exhausted from driving, at Chéticamp in the park. Of course, we had to make a few stops along the way. Part of the appeal of Cape Breton Island is its Scottish heritage, most notable along the Ceilidh Trail. Picturesque Ceilidh Trail (pronounced Kay’-Lee) runs along the west coast and has its road signs written in both English and Gaelic. Along the way are quaint villages, world-class seaside golf courses, and North America’s first single malt distillery.

Further north the Ceilidh Trail gave way to the world-famous Cabot Trail. Possibly the most scenic drive in all of Atlantic Canada, the Cabot Trail encircles the entire northern section of Cape Breton Island. During our visit, we focused on the western section of the trail, from Margaree Harbour in the south to Pleasant bay in the north.

Fishing Boats Grand Étang Harbour Cape Breton Island #58583 Purchase

Cape Breton Highlands National Park

Arriving in Cape Breton Highlands National Park was exhilarating. We were just about as far north in the province as we could drive. The land had begun to take on a wilder primordial feel, even more, evident high on the Cape Breton Plateau. There were few towns, and those were very small fishing outposts. Although Cape Breton Highlands lies only at 46º north, I had the feeling of being on the southern edge of the vast expanse of Canadian subarctic lands. I imagined that if I squinted hard enough I could see Newfoundland, then Labrador, and finally Baffin Island. I should state here that for most of my life I’ve had an obsession with everything arctic. Especially the Canadian Arctic, which holds a tight grip on my imagination, partly due to its rich and often tragic history of exploration.

After setting up camp in Cape Breton Highlands National Park I anxiously began to scout out the coastal drive. Along the west coast, the Cabot Trail climbs high and has stupendous views of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. At its height, you can see to the Magdalen Islands, situated nearly in the center of the Gulf. I like to think this section of the Cabot Trail is Canada’s east coast version of Big Sur in California. After winding up along the coast the road heads inland to the plateau highlands and a dramatic change of scenery.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Nova Scotia #58564 Purchase

Cape Breton Highlands Plateau

Dominated by boreal forest with a distinct sub-arctic feel, the Cape Breton Plateauis a windswept wilderness of barrens, bogs, and lakes. Most people think of the Appalachian Mountains ending at Mount Katahdin in Maine. However, geologically they continue much further north. Cape Breton Plateau is an Appalachian mountain worn down by glacial activity. To reach the true end of this ancient chain of mountains you would need to travel as far as the highlands of Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland. Since the weather was grey and forbidding on the plateau I headed back to photograph the coastal drive in the evening light.

While in the park I wanted to hike the Skyline Trail to photograph the iconic view from the top. At the end of the trail, a dramatic headlands cliff overlooks the winding road and the vast expanse of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. This trail and view are one of the hallmarks of the park. However, my timing to get there was poor. I failed to consider the length of the hike, it would’ve been dark by the time I made it there. I was fortunate to drive to an alternate overlook just in time to make a few photos of evening light breaking through the clouds.

Cabot Trail Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Nova Scotia #58637 Purchase

Margaree Harbour & Lobsters

The next day Coleen and I drove south to scenic Margaree Harbour to photograph fishing boats and coastal views. I enjoyed this area, there were picturesque seaside farms, sandy beaches, churches, and colorful boats. An interesting find was Centre de la Mi-Carême, an interpretive center focusing on the Acadian celebration of Mid-Lent with masks, music, and dance. Attracting us to the center was the display of colorful effigies on display in the parking lot. Unfortunately, our visit was cut short as the center wasn’t open at the time.

Back on the lobster hunt, as we found out in New Brunswick, lobster was out of season. However, we were lucky enough to find that in Margaree Harbour the Island Sunset Lobster Pound still had some available. After chatting with the friendly owner and a patron about our travels we hurried back to camp to cook our long-anticipated crustaceans. In the warm afternoon sun, we made a glorious mess of cracked shells lobster meat, and melted butter! This was the way to do it, out in the open air by the sea, not in a stuffy restaurant.

Margaree Harbour Cape Breton Island #58615 Purchase

Church in Margaree Harbour #58607 Purchase

Cabot Trail Coastal Photography

In the evening, and again the next morning, I went out to make photographs along the coast. I had some nice light for photography while in the area but it didn’t last very long. I came back with only a few new images, including one of a beached whale, headless and rotting on the beach. This is usually the situation when visiting a new location. Without prior firsthand knowledge of a location, it’s difficult to be in the right place at the right time. In my experience, I might get lucky a few times on an initial trip. But it normally takes several return visits to understand its character. There are some spots from which I still have not created a defining image, although I’ve been there many times and know it intimately.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park #58560 Purchase

Whale carcass, Cape Breton Island #58647 Purchase

Over to the Atlantic Side

After packing up our camp we began our drive north and over to the Atlantic side of Cape Breton Island. At Green Cove, we got our first real view of the Atlantic Ocean. Getting out of the truck to stretch our legs I found this to be a great place for photography. The headland is composed of beautiful pink granite laced with striped intrusions. Given the right lighting conditions, I could spend hours here photographing the fascinating patterns. Unfortunately, a storm front was arriving with the first drops of rain which lasted all day.

I wished we had better weather and more time to stay and explore beautiful Cape Breton Island. One of my biggest regrets was having to pass up a visit to the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site. Located on the far eastern edge of Cape Breton Island, the fort is a wonderfully preserved 18th-century military installation. Among the activities here are interactive tours and reenactments of 18th-century life. Including Louisbourg on our trip would’ve meant excluding other important locations further on. And I didn’t want to miss out on photographing iconic Peggy’s Cover and historic Lunenburg. So it was onward into the rain, and part two of this post!

Green Cove, Cape Breton Highlands National Park #58656 Purchase

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The Great Northern Peninsula

Cape Norman

L’Anse aux Meadows

Arches Provincial Park

Labrador

Point Amour Lighthouse and Coastal Drive

Essential Tips:

Tips for Photographing the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador

Practical Tips:

To see more of the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador, check out these galleries: Newfoundland and Labrador 1 Newfoundland and Labrador 2

Twillingate

North Twillingate Island

South Twillingate Island

Iceberg and Whale Watching Tours

Tips for Photographing on Iceberg Tours:

Fogo Island

Essential Tips:

Photographing Twillingate and Fogo Island Newfoundland

Practical Tips:

To see more images check out these galleries: Newfoundland and Labrador 1 Newfoundland and Labrador 2

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula: Cape Bonavista

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula: The Klondike Trail

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula: Elliston and Puffins

Essential Tips:

Photographing Bonavista Peninsula Newfoundland

Practical Tips:

Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site

Photographing at Cape Spear

Practicalities for Photographing in Newfoundland

Traveling while Photographing in Newfoundland

New Locations Scheduled for Spring 2023

New Images

Outdoor Field Class

New Fine Art Print Paper

Marine Life

Touring San Juan Island

Photographing at Lime Kiln

How to get to Lime Kiln Point

Larrabee State Park

Want to Learn More?

Bluenose Coast Nova Scotia

At Chester

Mahone Bay & Lunenburg

Blue Rocks Fishing Community

Blue Rocks Evening Photography

Onwards to Cape Breton Island

Cape Breton Highlands National Park

Cape Breton Highlands Plateau

Margaree Harbour & Lobsters

Cabot Trail Coastal Photography

Over to the Atlantic Side

To see more of the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador, check out these galleries:
Newfoundland and Labrador 1
Newfoundland and Labrador 2

To see more images check out these galleries:
Newfoundland and Labrador 1
Newfoundland and Labrador 2