Mount Bonneville and Little Bonneville Lake. Bridger Wilderness, Wind River Range Wyoming #66271

Bonneville Lakes Wind River Range

Bonneville Lakes Wind River Range

Bonneville Lakes Wind River Range #66272 Purchase

The second part of last summer’s Rocky Mountain photo tour took place in the Wind River Range of Wyoming. This spectacular section of the Rockies contains 40 peaks over 13,000 feet, the largest glacier in the American Rockies, and over 1300 named lakes. All are spread over three wilderness areas. Several areas can get downright crowded with hikers and climbers. However, numerous trails rarely see any boot traffic.

My first destination in the Winds was one of those quiet spots, Bonneville Basin. While planning my stay in the Winds I was looking to visit an area that was new to me with good photo potential. I had seen photos of this area online and I was immediately impressed by its rugged beauty and remote feel.

There are a couple of trailheads accessing this area, Scab Creek and Big Sandy, both entail long miles of hiking to get to Bonneville Basin. I opted for Big Sandy since it starts higher and I was already familiar with it. The Big Sandy trailhead accesses one of the most popular areas in the Winds, Cirque of the Towers. I knew what to expect here, well over a hundred vehicles. Consequently, they were overflowing the parking lot and lining the road for nearly a mile. Therefore I arrived very early in the morning and found a spot right next to the trail kiosk.

On the Fremont Trail near Dad’s Lake #66325 Purchase

Backpacking to Bonneville Lakes

Backpacking trails on the west side of the Winds can be somewhat deceiving. On a map, you will see trailheads starting at around 9000′ with your destination at around 10,000′. The length of your hike may be anywhere from 5-15 miles. This may lead you to believe that a relaxing hike with minimal elevation gain awaits you. But, in most cases, you would be dead wrong.

The Big Sandy Trailhead sits at 9080′, Bonneville Basin is at 10,500′, a mere 1500′ higher. However, in the 17 miles to the basin, you will hike a roller coaster of a trail. My rough tally was around 3000′ of elevation gain. The good news is that much of the distance you will be hiking at or above the tree-line, with awe-inspiring views most of the way.

Unnamed lake along the Fremont Trail benchland #66257 Purchase

After an initial climb through the forest, the trail opens up into expansive subalpine meadows. The hiking is pleasant for the next five miles, as it passes picturesque lakes with great views. The first seven miles or so can feel like you’re on a freeway since the trail is shared with groups of backpackers doing the extremely popular Hailey-Washakie Loop. Solitude begins at the trail junction to Pyramid Lake, a short way beyond Marms Lake. This is where parties doing the Hailey-Washakie Loop exit the Fremont Trail. Although the loop trip was tempting I stayed with my original plan.

From here on I met a few other hikers, several of which were doing the Continental Divide Trail, or CDT. I always envy these hikers. Although they are on a trip of over 1000′ miles their packs are tiny and weigh next to nothing. Mine, however, is a great burden weighed down with heavy camera gear.

The Fremont Trail continues its roller-coaster nature for the next nine miles to the Raid Lake junction. An especially taxing point is the descent to East Fork Crossing, immediately followed by a stiff climb to a high plateau. I decided to call it a day and camp at an unnamed lake a few miles from the Raid Lake junction.

Little Bonneville Lake #66285 Purchase

At Bonneville Lakes

The next day I hiked more ups and downs on the final few miles to the junction. Exiting the Fremont Trail I was now on a trail that was more like a route. The first mile or so gradually climbs and makes a few easy stream crossings. Then it tackles a headwall and climbs steeply through the forest. After making that final grueling climb on the second day, the sight of Little Bonneville Lake was a nice reward. I should note here that until this point the trip was not truly in the mountains proper. Although it feels like you’re in the mountains as you hike the benchland, the real peaks are just to the east, along the Continental Divide. However, it wasn’t until I was at Little Bonneville Lakes that the big craggy peaks were all around me.

It was a bit of a surprise to see that in the entire lakes basin I saw only one other tent, and that party left a few hours after my arrival. Subsequently, I had the entire area all to myself. Little, or Lower, Bonneville Lake, in my opinion, is the most scenic of the three lakes in the basin. With small islands dotting the lake, and the spires of Mount Bonneville in the background, it is truly an impressive scene.

Mount Bonneville and Bonneville Lake #66296 Purchase

Reaching Bonneville Lake requires some route-finding skills. Beyond the lower lake, there is a faint trail that approaches a headwall to the right of an obvious waterfall. At that point, it fades out. I ended up backtracking a bit until I found a break in the cliffs filled with a steep boulder field. Here I scrambled up to the top where it was an easy walk to upper Bonneville Lake.

Little Bonneville Lake #66308 Purchase

Here in the true alpine, the terrain takes on a barren look. Bonneville Lake is all cliffs and boulder fields, with only a few grassy areas to add color. Although another lake, Sheila, is a short way higher up, I didn’t bother to check it out. I was too busy relaxing in the sun and enjoying the view. Making my way back down to camp was a bit trickier since I had a difficult time finding the appropriate break in the cliffs again.

Mount Bonneville, Little Bonneville Lake #66283b Purchase

Frustrating Light and Heading Out

Back at Little Bonneville, I had one more evening and morning left for photographing Mount Bonneville. Photography-wise the trip so far was a bit frustrating. This was mainly due to a lack of good light during golden hour and a nearly constant wind whipping up the surface of the lake. Every day from mid-morning to early evening there were some promising cloud formations. But for the most part, they either dissipated too soon or were in the wrong part of the sky. The area around Mount Bonneville itself only had a few tantalizing wisps to accent any compositions during the golden hour.

Leaving the next day was a difficult decision. It was such a beautiful area with excellent photographic potential, and I had come a long way to see it. But the weather forecast before I left predicted clear skies and wind for at least a week. So it didn’t seem that staying a day or two more would yield the conditions I needed for photography. And in the end, I was right. The weather on this hike was perfect for backpacking but not the best for photography.

Retracing my route on the hike out I enjoyed a sense of accomplishment. Meeting others on the trail I passed on information about how beautiful the lakes were and inquired about other areas I would like to visit in the future. The last night was spent at Dad’s Lake, a pleasant spot with lots of fishing potential, but not many views of the big peaks.

Fremont Trail near East North Fork Crossing #66311 Purchase

Arriving back at the trailhead the parking lot was still packed with cars and parties of hikers and climbers eager to start on their own Wind River Range adventure. I chatted it up a bit with some of them, then headed back to Pinedale for some good food. I also replenished supplies since I would soon be starting on the longest backpack of the trip. Two days later I would be on the trail to Island Lake and Titcomb Basin in the Central Wind River Range.

If You Go to Bonneville Lakes Wind River Range

Trail info:
Round Trip Distance: 40 miles
Elevation: Trailhead 9085′ Bonneville Lake 10,800′
About 6000′ gain and 2500′ loss along the length of the trail.
Difficulty: Moderate hiking but strenuous due to length and elevation changes
Red Tape: As of 2019, no permits are needed

The Big Sandy Trailhead is located 57 miles south of Pinedale. About 27 miles of it is on dusty gravel roads, with the last 10 miles being rough and narrow. There is lots of traffic, and on the last segment, you must remain alert on curves for oncoming cars, and especially for horse trailers. There are excellent campsites in the last few miles before the trailhead. I took advantage of them so as to organize my gear and also to get a parking spot and early start the next morning.

Make sure you take along plenty of insect repellant. The Winds are especially notorious for their ravenous hordes of mosquitoes and flies. Although they weren’t too bad during my trip in mid-August. Also, be prepared for dramatic weather changes. I had beautiful warm sunshine, but due to the elevation, the wind was very cold. Consequently, I was hot on one side and chilled on the other.

The town of Pinedale makes a great base for multiple trips into the Winds. It has everything you’ll need, from good food and lodging to one of my favorite outdoor recreation stores, the Great Outdoor Shop. It’s stocked with everything needed for a successful trip, including a very knowledgeable and friendly staff. Don’t visit Pinedale without dropping in! Right next door to the great Outdoor Shop is the best place to go for a post-trip meal, the Wind River Brewing Company. They have excellent burgers and great brews!

Unnamed lake along the Fremont Trail benchland #66262 Purchase

And now for a short lecture. As I’ve been saying in previous posts, don’t even think about visiting this or any other wilderness area unless you are prepared to strictly follow the guidelines of Leave No Trace (LNT). The Wind River Range and all other wilderness areas throughout the world are under incredible pressure from growing amounts of visitors. Please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

Seven Leave No Trace Principles

Plan ahead and prepare.
Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
Dispose of waste properly.
Leave what you find.
Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
Respect wildlife.
Be considerate of other visitors.

Photo Gear Used On This Trip

Nikon D850
Nikkor Lens:
14-24mm 2.8G ED
24-70mm 2.8E ED
70-200mm 2.8E FL ED
Gitzo 1532 Tripod
Really Right Stuff B-55 Ball Head
Assorted Lee Graduated Neutral Density Filters
B+H Polarizing Filter
Vello FWM-N2 Remote Shutter Release

Mount Bonneville Bridger Wilderness #66270 #Purchase

If you enjoyed reading Bonneville Lakes Wind River Range please share it with your friends and family.

And check out these other Wind River posts!
Cirque of the Towers Wind River Range
Island Lake Wind River Range
Titcomb Basin Wind River Range
Indian Basin Wind River Range
Green River Lakes Wind River Range
Central Wind River Range Backpacking
Pyramid and Shadow Lakes Wind River Range

All photos appearing in Bonneville Lakes Wind River Range are available for Commercial Licensing and Fine Art Prints. Click on any image to purchase, or contact me for more info!

Bonneville Lakes Wind River Range

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Twin Lakes and Peak 9,923, Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop Trail Sawtooth Mountains #66175

November 24, 2019August 8, 2024

Alice-Toxaway Loop Backpacking Photography

Alice-Toxaway Loop Backpacking Photography

Twin Lakes #66175 Purchase

The final destination during my time in the Sawtooth Mountains was the classic Alice-Toxaway Loop. I could say that I saved the best for last, but that wouldn’t be accurate. The hikes to Baron Lakes and Sawtooth Lake were equally spectacular. All three destinations have something unique to offer the backcountry visitor.

The Alice-Toxaway Loop sits at the southern end of the range. It is roughly 17 miles long, travels over one mountain pass, and visits four gorgeous alpine lakes. Aside from the main trail, there are several attractive side trips possible. The most popular being to Imogene Lake over a second pass.

The loop takes usually takes 2-3 days to complete. Some backpackers do the loop in two days, or even day-hike or run the loop in one day, but to me that is ridiculous. Isn’t the pace of life today fast enough? It is not difficult to hike in one or two days, but you will be rushing through some of the best scenery of the Sawtooths, on a thoroughly enjoyable trail. For me taking less than three days would be unthinkable. I allotted five days but spent four days due to poor weather on the last day.

Alice-Toxaway Loop #66053 Purchase

Hiking to Alice Lake

The loop can be done in a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. I chose clockwise since I was eager to spend a couple of nights at Alice Lake at the beginning. Starting at Petit Lake from the Tin Cup Trailhead the trail follows the lake shore then enters the forest for a brief spell. From the start to Alice Lake, the trail has numerous creek crossings which can be difficult early in the season. Soon the trail begins to climb and the views open. Certainly, one of the best of these is a view far across the valley to the White Cloud Mountains and Wilderness.

Alice Lake #66110 Purchase

After this, the trail continues a pleasant climb through rocky terrain, dotted with wildflowers and babbling streams. Soon enough the trail levels out and passes by several small ponds near the outlet of Alice Lake. All along this stretch, the landscape is dominated by the lofty spire of El Capitan. Here, and at Alice Lake, there are many great places to set up camp. I chose one further along the trail at Alice Lake near some of the best photo ops. I spent the rest of the day relaxing and scouting for photo compositions.

Camping at Alice Lake #66072 Purchase

Camping at Alice Lake #66086 Purchase

There were some great spots along the far end of the lake for photography. However, from that perspective, El Capitan had a more rounded appearance. Hiking back to near the outlet of the lake it displayed a more impressive horn-like spire.

El Capitan, Alice Lake #66114 Purchase

On to Twin Lakes

After a couple of nights spent at Alice Lake, I moved on to Twin Lakes. Twin Lakes is a very short hike from Alice, about a mile and around several hundred feet higher. Some say Twin Lakes has the better views, but that’s all subjective. I think Alice and Twin are equally impressive, they just have different personalities.

Backpacker at Twin Lakes #66137 Purchase

The focal point for photography was the impressive unnamed horn-shaped peak across the lake. I spent a good deal of time scouting and lining up compositions for evening and morning light. Along the way, I came across a huge gnarled old White Bark Pine. I just couldn’t pass up making some photos of its lumpy distorted trunk.

White Bark Pine #66141 Purchase

The next morning I awoke before dawn and set up my gear in a preselected site and waited for dawn. There were some beautiful clouds and soft light to work with. Utilizing a wide lens I was able to use angles and shapes from the peak across the lake.

Twin Lakes #66170 Purchase

Unfortunately more clouds soon moved in and it became apparent that the weather would be making a change. After finishing up photography and breakfast I packed up camp and set out for the next destination on the loop, Toxaway Lake.

Toxaway Lake

Immediately the trail begins a switchback climb up to Snowyside Pass, the high point of the loop at 9416′. From here the views are spectacular. Although I continued on down the pass, an easy scramble to the summit of Snowyside Peak is a popular side trip. Below are Twin Lakes, set in a bowl surrounded by jagged peaks and ridges. The pass area would make a great spot to camp but after a short while, I needed to move on.

The trail above Twin Lakes #66198 Purchase

Toxaway Lake is several miles further on from the pass. The trail down passed through some beautiful meadows filled with wildflowers. I was disappointed to see how far down the trail descended, and it soon became apparent that Toxaway Lake would be just below the tree line. Getting nearer the lake mosquitoes became a problem for the first time on the trip.

After what seemed like a long hike I finally arrived at the lake and began looking for a campsite. Further on down the lake is a junction that heads up to Imogene Lake, and many other in the adjacent basin. I must have passed up the main camping area since near the outlet I had some trouble locating a suitable spot. When I did find one it was just when it began to rain. During the rest of the day and most of the next morning, it rained steadily. Any chance of meaningful photography at Toxaway Lake was gone.

Twin Lakes #66185 Purchase

The Hike Out

The next morning the rain eased up a little but clouds still shrouded the surrounding peaks. I took advantage of the break in the rain, packed up, and headed down the trail. Long sections of the trail were now muddy ponds and streams. Eventually, the rain stopped but the clouds still hung low.

The trail continued a gradual descent as it passed Farley Lake. I was disappointed to have missed out on photographing at Toxaway Lake, and now Farley Lake would also be a casualty of the weather. After Farley, the trail descended more rapidly and entered deep forests of pine. It passed through an enormous avalanche path made during the previous winter. Huge trees snapped like match sticks were laying everywhere.

Alice-Toxaway Loop #56141 Purchase

The last section of the trail seemed to be the longest and most uninteresting. A monotonous hike through lodgepole pines, a tricky stream crossing, and then a climb over and down a ridge to the trailhead at Petit Lake. Along the way I came across an interesting sight, a large group of backpackers all sleeping in separate hammocks. There must have been six to eight hammocks spread out among the trees. They reminded me of some sort of giant insect cocoons! I must admit that they didn’t look like the kind of shelter I would enjoy being confined to during the previous day of rain.

The Alice-Toxaway Loop was now in the bag, and it lived up to its reputation in every way. I would highly recommend this trip for beginners and advanced backpackers, it has all the elements that hiking dreams are made of!

Little Redfish Lake #66227 Purchase

Last Day at Little Redfish Lake

Now, after two weeks of Backpacking and photography in the Sawtooth Mountains, I was just about ready to wrap things up and move on. However, I was treated to one final glorious morning of photography at Little Redfish Lake. As usual, I was there before dawn and ready. As the sun came rose it lit up the clouds in pinks, purples, and then orange, and yellow. A truly wonderful finale to one of the most memorable groups of hiking trips I’ve ever done.

As a celebration, I made a brief stop at Sunbeam Hot Springs and had a good soak along the Salmon River. Now on to the main attraction of this trip, the Wind River Range of Wyoming!

Sunbeam Hot Springs Idaho #66250 Purchase

If You Go

Round Trip Distance: 19 Mile Loop
Elevation: About 2900′ gain, Highpoint 9416′
Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
Red Tape: Free Permits are required, available at the trailhead

To get to Tincup Trailhead hiker’s parking lot, drive about 18 miles south of Stanley on U.S. 75 and another two miles west along FR 208. The small scenic town of Stanley Idaho makes a great base for trips into the Sawtooths. Lodging, groceries, restaurants, outdoor gear stores, and a great bakery are in town. Redfish Lake Lodge also has many similar amenities.

As mentioned earlier in this post, the Sawtooths are an extremely popular destination. Not only for hikers and backpackers, but also tourists, front country family camping, river rafters, and fishing. During the height of summer just about every campsite, both front country, and backcountry will be filled before noon. Therefore, make your plans accordingly to avoid frustration.

One of the best perks of the area is the numerous natural and wild hot springs. Soaking in one along the Salmon River is one of the greatest post-hike activities.

Leave No Trace

As I said in my previous post, don’t even think about visiting this or any other wilderness area unless you are prepared to strictly follow the guidelines of Leave No Trace (LNT). The Sawtooth and all other wilderness areas throughout the world are under incredible pressure from growing amounts of visitors. Please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

Seven Leave No Trace Principles

Plan ahead and prepare.
Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
Dispose of waste properly.
Leave what you find.
Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
Respect wildlife.
Be considerate of other visitors.

Check out more of the photos from this trip in my Idaho Archives.
All the photos in this post are available as Fine Art Prints and for Commercial Licensing.

Photo Gear Used On This Trip

Mount Heyburn, Little Redfish Lake #66244 Purchase

Alice-Toxaway Loop Backpacking Photography

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Monte Verita Peak mirrored in still waters of Baron Lake. Sawtooth Mountains Wilderness Idaho #66032

November 17, 2019November 20, 2023

Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Baron Lake Sawtooth Mountains #66032 Purchase

Update 2/16/2021: Thanks to a blog reader I was just made aware that on 8/7/2020 the summit of Baron Spire “Old Smoothie” collapsed due to an earthquake. Look closely at the rounded pyramid-shaped peak just right of center in the fifth photo in this post, “Baron Spire reflected on Baron Lake #66029”. You’ll notice an egg-shaped rock with a slight left lean at the top of Baron Spire. This entire mass of granite is now gone. You can see a dramatic video of the collapse here.

———————

After a successful trip to Sawtooth Lake, I was itching to get back on the trail and see more of the Sawtooth Mountains. The question was where to go next. There are plenty of tantalizing destinations in the Sawtooths. To explore them all you would need at least a full summer. Like most people with limited time, I wanted to visit the best of the best and return later for more in-depth exploration.

With about two weeks available I knew that the famous Alice-Toxaway Loop was a must-do. There were also several very attractive destinations in the Redfish Lake area. Cramer Lakes and Saddleback Lakes were two of those. However, the hike to Baron Lakes looked like it would provide several elements I was after. First and foremost was a good variety of photographic subject matter. Three lakes and one mountain pass is better than a straight hike into just one lake. Secondly, I wanted the hike in to be moderately challenging, but not exhausting. I was, after all, carrying plenty of heavy photo equipment on my back, aside from the usual camping paraphernalia. So, Baron Lakes, it was.

Redfish Creek Trail #65999 Purchase

Hiking to Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

To get to the start of the Baron Lakes trail, or any destination along Redfish Creek Valley you have two options. On one hand, you can begin at the hiker’s parking lot near Redfish Lake Lodge. Or for a $17 roundtrip, you can take a water taxi from the lodge to the trailhead at the head of Redfish Lake. This option will save you about five miles of hiking. Like a lot of others, I opted for the water taxi. On a beautiful warm summer morning, it was tempting to just rent a canoe or kayak and leisurely explore the lake. But I was there to grunt and sweat my way up a hot and dusty trail instead.

After an initial climb, the trail levels out a bit for the first few miles. At Flatrock Junction, the trail splits. Continuing on the main trail will take you to Cramer Lakes, the right fork ascends to Alpine, and Baron Lakes. Here is where the real work begins. The trail begins to switch back up to Alpine Lake, first through meadows and then along a cliff wall partially shaded by trees.

My first night was spent at Alpine Lake, yes there are two lakes sharing this name in the Sawtooths. Although the lake is set in a picturesque bowl I was a bit disappointed in this location. This is a popular destination and most of the NE side of the lakeshore has been pounded to dust by overuse, and the open forest here doesn’t provide much opportunity for solitude.

Baron Divide Trail #65051 Purchase

The next day I awoke and packed up early. I was eager to leave the dismal campsite and reach Baron Divide before it became too hot. This climb to the divide is pleasant, passing several ponds and grassy meadows along the way. Finally, at the divide, the fabulous scene of Baron Lakes and Monte Verita Peak came into view. It was a long switchback hike down to the lakes along boulder fields and flower meadows. This is truly one of those stretches of trail that backpackers dream of.

Baron Lake #66043 Purchase

At Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Upper Baron Lake is a great destination with good campsites, but the middle lake has the views I was anticipating for photography. Most of the campsites are on the North side of the lake and are close to the lake outlet. Fortunately, I was there early enough to find a secluded spot further on along a small bay. For most of the morning, I had the lake all to myself, but by evening every available space that could hold a tent was occupied. Despite highly visible trailhead signs prohibiting campfires at least one group felt the need to build one and fill the area with smoke.

Baron Spire reflected on Baron Lake #66029 Purchase

There are many possibilities for exploration from the lake. A short climb behind the camps offers great views down to the lower lake, and Baron Creek Valley with the imposing bulk of Baron Peak dominating the scene. Monte Verita and Wabonnet Peaks offer exciting scrambling and climbing routes. Hiking around the shore you can also climb back to the upper lake for a pleasant loop trip. Of course, you also can just sit and enjoy the view or try your luck at fishing.

Photographing at Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Since this was my first visit my goal was to photograph the classic view of Baron Lake with Monte Verita in the background. It doesn’t get much better than that. I just had to scout out the best compositions and wait for some good light.

Milky Way over Baron Lake #66011 Purchase

The evening was pleasant, but there was very little light illuminating the spires of Monte Verita. It became apparent that at this time of year the best light would come in the morning. After sunset, I took the opportunity to do some night photography. The location was perfect since the Milky Way was just to the left of Monte Verita at a pleasing angle.

At sunrise, there was a very attractive sprinkling of small puffy clouds reflected on a mirror-smooth lake surface. As the sun rose the clouds were continually changing patterns, keeping me busy photographing Rorschach-like compositions.

Baron Lake #66034 Purchase

Hiking Out

I spent another night at the lake, but since it was Sunday everyone else had Packed up and left. Therefore I had it all to myself, with plenty of time to anticipate the grueling climb back up to Baron Divide. The next morning that climb wasn’t too bad since I once again had a successful trip in the bag, and the views were still spectacular.

Like every other hike, descending Baron Divide was somewhat sad since the views were behind me and the trip was coming to a close. As a took one last look at the lakes and peaks I was hoping to return soon. Back down the trail to Redfish Lake I was all smiles, eager to speak with other hikers about the beauty they would soon see. By the time I reached the water taxi dock the day was hot, so the boat ride back was a cool relief.

Redfish Lake Marina #65995 Purchase

By then my mind was occupied by thoughts of pizza, a cold beer, and the Alice-Toxaway Loop hike.

Next up: Alice-Toxaway Loop

If You Go

Round Trip Distance: 15 Miles
Elevation: About 3500′ gain, Highpoint Baron Divide 9175′
Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
Red Tape: Free Permits are required, available at the trailhead

To get to Redfish Lake hikers parking lot, Redfish Lake Lodge and water taxi drive about 6 miles south of Stanley on U.S. 75 and another two miles along FR 214. There are plenty of campsites near Redfish Lake and Little Redfish Lake.

The small scenic town of Stanley Idaho makes a great base for trips into the Sawtooths. Lodging, groceries, restaurants, outdoor gear stores, and a great bakery are in town. Redfish Lake Lodge also has many similar amenities.

As mentioned earlier in this post, the Sawtooths are an extremely popular destination. Not only for hikers and backpackers, but also tourists, front country family camping, river rafters, and fishing. During the height of summer just about every campsite, both front country, and backcountry will be filled before noon. So make your plans accordingly to avoid frustration.

One of the best perks of the area is the numerous natural and wild hot springs. Soaking in one along the Salmon River is one of the greatest post-hike activities.

Leave No Trace

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

Seven Leave No Trace Principles

Plan ahead and prepare.
Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
Dispose of waste properly.
Leave what you find.
Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
Respect wildlife.
Be considerate of other visitors.

Photo Gear Used On This Trip

Milky Way over Baron Lake #66010 Purchase

Check out more of the photos from this trip in my Idaho Archives.
All the photos in this post are available as Fine Art Prints and for Commercial Licensing.

Next up: Alice-Toxaway Loop

Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

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Wispy clouds over Sawtooth Lake and Mount Regan are illuminated by the setting sun. Sawtooth Mountains Wilderness Idaho #65880

November 6, 2019November 21, 2023

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Sawtooth Lake #65880 Purchase

The first destination on my summer photography tour of the Rocky Mountains was the Sawtooth Range of central Idaho. I had been to the Sawtooths for photography several times in the past. However, this was to be my first foray into the famed backcountry. With ample time available I planned to make several backpacks into several of the most scenic locations. The first destination I chose was Sawtooth Lake.

Trailside view of Sawtooth Mountains #65987 Purchase

Hiking to Sawtooth Lake

Sawtooth Lake is the largest backcountry lake, and one of the most popular in the Sawtooth Wilderness. It is also probably one of the shortest backpacking destinations. The distance from the Iron Creek trailhead to the lake is about 4.5 miles, with 1750′ of elevation gain. Depending on your physical condition and pack weight the trip could be anywhere from easy to moderately difficult. The first half of the hike is fairly easy and passes through the cool shade of the forest. However, at around 3.5 miles things get serious with a switchback climb to Alpine Lake. Sitting in a cliff-ringed bowl at tree line Alpine Lake is a nice destination in itself. Some hikers decide to base camp here and then day hike up to Sawtooth Lake. I decided to take a pass since I was eager to see Sawtooth Lake.

Alpine Lake Sawtooth Mountains #65988 Purchase

At the junction of Alpine Lake, the trail gets down to business. For the last mile or so the trail switchbacks steeply up a ridge to Sawtooth Lake. Although it is a bit of a grind it is also the most scenic part of the trail. Here the trees thin out and offer great views of the rugged peaks and ridges. The views make this last stretch go quickly despite the steep climb. If you started later in the day this section can also be hot with the sun beating down on you.

At Sawtooth Lake

When the trail levels out it meanders through a pleasant subalpine landscape of cool streams and small ponds. From here it’s less than half a mile to the lake. If you’ve arrived later in the day you should probably take advantage of any open campsites available in this area. This a good reason to get as early a start as possible. Nearly all backcountry camps in the Sawtooths fill up very quickly. If you arrive late you may not find a spot and be tempted to camp in an undesignated area. Please don’t do this as the vegetation is extremely fragile.

Sawtooth Lake and Mount Regan #65930 Purchase

After a short hike through this area, I arrived at the fabled view of Sawtooth Lake and Mount Regan. It was a thrill to see this sight in person after viewing pictures of it for many years. While I wanted to just sit and take it all in I immediately went down to the business of finding a campsite. Although I arrived early the best sites with a lake view were already taken. A few minutes of checking out the area yielded a great site among boulders and trees a short distance from the lake.

Photographing At Sawtooth Lake

Upon setting up camp, relaxing, and having a bite to eat, it was time to begin scouting the lake vicinity for photo ops later in the day. Two spots that seemed to offer good photo compositions. One was a little south along the shore by a big boulder field, the other higher up at the head of the lake on the trail to McGown Lakes. This second spot was where I decided to set up for evening light.

Sawtooth Lake Afterglow #65888 Purchase

The trail to McGown Lakes begins at the lake outlet and climbs through rocky bowls dotted with wildflowers. Soon it begins a wide open traverse through scree fields below an unnamed peak. In an area with beautiful views in all directions, this was one of the best. The entire lake was spread out below with Mount Regan as an impressive backdrop. I set up my tripod here and relaxed for a few hours as the evening light came on. I was very fortunate to have some nice wispy clouds at sunset to accentuate the composition. A wonderful end to my first day in the Sawtooths.

Sawtooth Lake #65898 Purchase

The next morning I set up in the boulder field along the lake shore. I arrived before dawn and was disappointed to see an empty cloudless sky. But here I was, so I waited patiently hoping for some nice light. Fortunately, some nice clouds appeared and it turned out to be a beautiful morning. Returning to camp I noticed that all the others in the area were still sound asleep. It’s always nice to have a beautiful sunrise to yourself, but I feel sorry for those who sleep in and miss it.

Mount Regan Sawtooth Lake #65922 Purchase

At the south end of Sawtooth Lake

After breakfast, I decided to move on to the other end of the lake. A short scenic mile brought me to the south end of Sawtooth Lake. Most hikers don’t seem to bother with checking out this end so I had it all to myself. I found a nice established camp among some giant boulders and began exploring the area. I was especially interested in hiking a little further south along the trail to see if there were good views across the valley to Baron Peak. The hike below Mount Regan through open rocky terrain was exciting, but the trail soon began to drop into the valley. There were nice views of Baron Peak but not what I had hoped for.

Night sky over Sawtooth Lake #65938 Purchase

That evening the sky was disappointingly cloudless. To make up for it I decided to take my first shot at night sky photography. The next morning I again set up before dawn in a cloudless sky. Very frustrating but again I waited and hoped. Incredibly just at dawn, a few clouds appeared. What looked at first like a boring morning turned into a nearly two-hour frenzy of photography. Cloud patterns and light continued to change and I came away with plenty of new and exciting images.

Morning clouds over Sawtooth Lake #65942 Purchase

Later that morning I packed up and began the hike out. It’s always a little sad for me to leave such a beautiful place, but I was thrilled at having my first trip to the Sawtooths a total success. I savored every step I made on the trail and envisioned my return sometime in the future.

Next up: Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Morning clouds over Sawtooth Lake #65954 Purchase

If You Go

Round Trip Distance: 10 Miles
Elevation: About 1758′ gain, Highpoint 8471′
Difficulty: Moderate
Red Tape: Free Permits are required, available at the trailhead

To get to the Iron Creek Trailhead from Stanley, go northwest 2.5 miles on ID 21, then 4 miles south on Forest Road #619. There are plenty of campsites near the trailhead and along the road to facilitate an early start.

The small scenic town of Stanley Idaho makes a great base for trips into the Sawtooths. Lodging, groceries, restaurants, outdoor gear stores, and a great bakery are in town. There are also many campgrounds in the vicinity.

As mentioned earlier in this post, the Sawtooths are an extremely popular destination. Not only for hikers and backpackers, but also tourists, front country family camping, river rafters, and fishing. During the height of summer just about every campsite, both front country, and backcountry will be filled before noon. So make your plans accordingly to avoid frustration.

One of the best perks of the area is the numerous natural and wild hot springs. Soaking in one along the Salmon River is one of the greatest post-hike activities.

Leave No Trace

Don’t even think about visiting this or any other wilderness area unless you are prepared to strictly follow the guidelines of Leave No Trace (LNT). All wilderness areas throughout the world are under incredible pressure from growing amounts of visitors. Please do your part to help preserve these precious areas for future generations!

To learn more about the principles and practicing LNT please take a few minutes to visit the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Your children and grandchildren will thank you!

Seven Leave No Trace Principles

Plan ahead and prepare.
Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
Dispose of waste properly.
Leave what you find.
Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
Respect wildlife.
Be considerate of other visitors.

Sawtooth Mountains from Stanley Basin #65845 Purchase

Check out more of the photos from this trip in my Idaho Archives.
All the photos in this post are available as Fine Art Prints and for Commercial Licensing.

Photo Gear Used On This Trip

Morning clouds over Sawtooth Lake #65974 Purchase

Next up: Baron Lakes Sawtooth Mountains

Sawtooth Lake Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

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Titcomb Basin wildflowers Wind River Range Wyoming

October 23, 2019November 20, 2023

New Images Wind River Range

New Images Wind River Range

Titcomb Basin Wildflowers #66559 Purchase

The second group of new images from my Rocky Mountains photo tour is now online and ready to view. This group represents close to three weeks of backpacking photography in the Wind River Range of Wyoming.

If you have been following my blog over the past several years you’ll know that the Winds have been on my “must return to list” for quite some time. They are an extensive high-elevation mountain range encompassing three wilderness areas. There are enough peaks lakes and glaciers in the Winds to keep a photographer busy for an entire lifetime.

Squaretop Mountain #66997 Purchase

This was my fourth trip to the Winds and by far my most successful. The past trips were plagued by poor light and or smoke from wildfires. However, this time there were plenty of opportunities to photograph in exceptional light.

Here is a list of the locations from this trip. After I finish the next edits of Grand Teton, Yellowstone, and Glacier National Parks I’ll be following up with more posts detailing each of the trips from this tour.

Bonneville Lakes Basin
Island Lake/Titcomb Basin/Indian Basin
Green River Lakes/Green River/Squaretop Mountain

And of course, all images are ready and available as Fine Art Prints and for Commercial Licensing.

Island Lake #66368 Purchase

Mount Bonneville #66273 Purchase

Milky Way over Upper Titicomb Basin #66741 Purchase

New Images Wind River Range

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October 8, 2019November 14, 2022

New Images Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

New Images Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

Meadows of Stanley Basin, Idaho #65845 Purchase

The first group of new images from my Rocky Mountains photo tour is now online and ready to view. This selection represents the first leg of my trip, the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho. It includes photos made during three separate backpacking trips into the most spectacular backcountry locations in the Sawtooths. Sawtooth Lake, Baron Lakes, and the famous Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop. Also among this group are images from Little Redfish Lake and meadows of Stanley Basin. Both of these locations yielded some great images on this and previous visits.

Milky Way over Baron Lake #66011 Purchase

The Sawtooth Mountains backcountry has been on my must photograph list for many years. They were on the schedule last year, but due to widespread wildfires and smoke I had to cancel the shoot. This year, however, provided ideal conditions for an extended stay. And I took full advantage of it. In addition to there being no fires or smoke, several passing summer storms provided beautiful evening and morning light. Perfect conditions for landscape photography.

After I complete editing and processing all the images from the rest of the trip I’ll return to the beginning and write detailed posts about all the locations I photographed.

To see even more images from this and previous trips to the Sawtooth Mountains please click this link to go to the Idaho gallery of my Archives. All images are available as fine art prints and for commercial licensing.

Next group of new images coming soon: Wind River Range Wyoming

Sawtooth Lake, Idaho #65942 Purchase

Twin Lakes, Alice-Toxaway Lakes Loop #66185 Purchase

New Images Sawtooth Mountains Idaho

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October 2, 2017November 20, 2023

Marriott Basin Coast Mountains British Columbia

Marriott Basin alpenglow, #61843 Purchase

Last month I made my third trip to Marriott Basin, in search of new landscape images. Hot on the heels of my recent trip to Whatcom Pass, I wanted to get in as many backpacking photo trips as possible before wildfire smoke returned. This season has been one of the worst in history for wildfires. Both in the western United States and British Columbia numerous large fires are burning.

Located in the southern Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Marriott Basin is an extensive alpine area. Access to the area is from Cayoosh Pass on Highway 99, about an hour’s drive east of Pemberton. Nearby is the extremely popular Joffre Lakes Provincial Park. While the lakes are popular with sightseers and day hikers, the Joffre Group of peaks is wildly popular with climbers and backcountry skiers.

Generally above 6000′ Marriott Basin contains several lakes and numerous peaks for climbing, most notably Marriott Peak. My previous trips to Marriott Basin entailed one overnight backpack to Mount Rohr, technically outside the basin. The other was a winter ski trip to the Wendy Thompson Hut, located at the head of the basin. The Wendy Thompson Hut is operated by the Alpine Club of Canada and is open year-round. However, the hut sees most of its visitors during the winter and early spring ski season.

Trailhead avalanche warning #61910 Purchase

Marriott Basin Trail

Getting into Marriott Basin is fairly straightforward, with summer access being slightly different from winter. In summer you can drive a couple of miles up a brushy gravel secondary road to the trailhead. Parking and turnaround space is extremely limited and you my need back down the road to find a spot. The total length into the basin from trailhead to the hut is around five miles with about 2000′ feet of elevation gain. I say around and about since I don’t carry a GPS and rely on maps and online trail guides instead. Depending on your fitness and pack weight the hike in can be from 2-4 hours.

Posted at the trailhead is a large sign warning of and explaining avalanche hazards, which generally is of no consequence in summer. Hikers accustomed to hiking on U.S. trail in the Pacific Northwest may be in for a rude awakening. Well marked and easy to follow, the trail receives very little maintenance. Climbing over logs around boulders and muddy areas the trail is pretty rough in places. After a short level spell the trail climbs a headwall very steeply, without switchbacks, trough forest. Near the top of this section is the turnoff for Rohr Lake and Mount Rohr. From here the trail levels off a bit and zigzags around muddy bogs and small meadows until a tricky log crossing of a stream. On my visit the water was low but in late spring early summer the crossing must be quite exciting!

Mount Rohr junction #61905 Purchase

Creek crossing, Marriott Basin Trail #61892 Purchase

The next section of the trail climbs into the subalpine zone, or the boulder zone as I call it on this trip. As soon as you start breaking out of the trees the trail is almost constantly negotiating rocks and boulders. The constant ups and downs and zigzagging can be very tiring, especially in warm weather. However the views also begin to open up now, above to the ridge tops and over to green Marriott Lake. After reaching the far end of the lake the last bit of climbing to the hut begins. Again, depending on your pack weight this section can feel short or agonizingly long. In all it’s less than a mile and 200′ higher up. A level boulder filled meadow with a meandering stream is home to the hut.

Wendy Thompson Hut #61793 Purchase

Wendy Thompson Hut

The upper lakes were my ultimate destination, so I only paused briefly for a rest and inspection of the hut. Wendy Thompson was a ski patroller and paramedic. She died tragically in 1995 at the age of 33 in a Medivac flight crash in the Queen Charlotte Islands. As a memorial and legacy to Wendy, her parents and the ACC worked with volunteers to build this hut.

Since my last winter visit the ACC made some substantial renovations. They extended the entire length, added solar powered lighting and USB ports. They also replaced the obnoxious smell of kerosene heaters with a wood burning stove. As is usual in backcountry huts one of the tables was covered in maps, guide books, and misc. reading material. Also present was the obligatory cribbage board and multiple decks of cards.

From the hut the work begins again. Access to the upper lakes is via more and bigger boulder fields without benefit of a trail. Some well placed rock cairns mark the way but mostly it’s a pick your own best route deal. Once at the upper lakes it wide open wandering in all directions. I set up camp in a spot suitable for easy access to photo ops of the distant peaks and valley below.

Boulder field, cairn visible in lower right corner #61849 Purchase

Upper Marriott Basin

The next day I did some exploring and I set my eyes on an easy ridge within my comfort level. Hiking and easy scrambling over boulder slopes brought me to the crest with new view to the west and north. One of the reasons I picked this particular ridge was for the unobstructed views of Cayoosh Mountain. Sitting at 8200″Cayoosh is a fairly bulky chunk of rock with the north and east aspects covered in glaciers. Looking down between me and Cayoosh was a high pass with a small green lake. To the north was a long deep valley with countless peaks on the horizon. Taking in such a view I immediately wished I had my camp set up here! Photographing in good light would be spectacular. I guess I”ll have to make another trip back sometime.

Later back at my camp I settled in to wait for evening light. Although the sky was mostly free of clouds, there was some nice alpenglow present which enabled me to make a few photos. It was nice to watch the progression of layered colors after sunset. First came yellows and oranges followed by purples and blues of the Belt of Venus.

Camping in Marriott Basin #61795 Purchase

Cayoosh Mountain #61805 Purchase

Upper Marriott Basin #61815 Purchase

Back at the Hut

The next day I had planned to hike out to my truck but on exploring the area near the hut I decided to stay an extra night. Near the hut were small grassy meadows and a small stream among more boulders. I found a nice campsite near the small stream which held potential for some nice photographic compositions. I tried to make some evening photos but the light was bland, especially with no clouds. In the morning it was apparent that winds had shifted. Smoke once again began to creep across the sky. Although there still weren’t any clouds the light was a bit nicer, with the smoky haze giving a more pastel hue to the scene. I set up my tripod in a few predetermined places and came away with several more photos.

I had a quick breakfast and packed up my gear. Although I wasn’t as successful with photos as hoped I did have a great time. And I did manage to find a new view that was worthy of a return trip.

Marriott Basin Camping #61863 Purchase

Marriott Basin #61871 Purchase

Smokey haze over Marriott Lake #61884 Purchase

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September 5, 2017November 14, 2022

Whatcom Pass Tapto Lakes North Cascades National Park Part 2

Whatcom Pass Tapto Lakes North Cascades National Park

Mount Challenger, North Cascades National Park #61740

Several weeks ago I was finally able to make a return visit to Whatcom Pass and Tapto Lakes. In the heart of North Cascades National Park, Whatcom Pass is the quintessential North Cascades wilderness. It rises out of deep untouched forest valleys to jaw-dropping views of rugged glacier-clad peaks. From Part 1

Exploring Tapto Lakes Basin

Tapto Lakes is one of those locations that many hikers dream about visiting. Remote, high in the subalpine, and surrounded by rugged snowcapped peaks, the lakes have all the features of a classic backpacking destination. Tapto Lakes sits in a basin about 800′ above Whatcom Pass. The basin contains a large lake and several smaller lakes set in a heather-filled subalpine meadow. The basin is shaped somewhat like an amphitheater, with the main show being the stupendous views of Mount Challenger and Whatcom Peak. Situated in a designated cross-country zone by the park service, with a permit you are free to camp anywhere among the lakes, though with a few caveats.

After investing two days of hard work into reaching the lakes I woke up rested and refreshed. Content on not having to hike anywhere with a full pack I took in the view and planned my day. Of course, since my main reason for being here was landscape photography I woke up early to survey the light. I had already identified several excellent spots to run to in the event of some great morning light. Unfortunately, this wasn’t the case on my first morning, so I had lots of leisure time to explore all the lakes.

My usual modus operandi is to spend most of the day scouting out and lining up possible compositions. I then try to assign a priority to them and work from the top down when the lighting becomes appropriate. My first evening had some very nice light, enabling me to photograph some classic reflections of Whatcom Peak.

Whatcom Peak, North Cascades National Park #61499 Purchase

The View North

On my second day, I decided to move camp to a higher location. My map showed a very small lake not far away in its small talus-fringed basin on Red Face Mountain. It appeared to offer even more commanding views, along with quick access to a ridge on Red Face Mountain. The short hike up was worth it. The lake still had some snow along one side and also had some good composition qualities. I quickly found an excellent spot to set up camp, after which I hiked up to the ridge.

Bear Mountain and Reveille Lakes, North Cascades National Park #61536 Purchase

As I crested the ridge I was presented with incredible views of the wild peaks to the north. Dominating the views were Bear Mountain and the jagged needle-like spires of Mox Peaks and Silver Peaks. Far below the precipitous and crumbling ridge were the turquoise-colored Reveille Lakes. All of this territory was completely devoid of trails, a true wilderness only accessible to the most determined mountaineers. I sat there for quite some time, contemplating how fortunate I was to be in such a special place. I got up after a while and headed back down the slope, wondering if I’ll ever return.

Waiting for Light

Back down at the lake, the day was wearing on and it was time to set up some compositions. Some clouds had moved in and were swirling around the summits of nearby peaks. I was hoping they wouldn’t completely sock in everything before sunset. I moved to the back of the lake where Whatcom Peak cast a nice reflection in the still waters. Waiting to see what would happen I photographed a series of images in which the clouds and reflection created a sort of Rorshach effect. Although the light didn’t have a dramatic saturation of the color, I did like some of the subtle pastel tones. All in all, it was a very satisfying day.

Whatcom Peak cloud reflection, North Cascades National Park #61603 Purchase

Whatcom Peak cloud reflection, North Cascades National Park #61630 Purchase

Middle Lakes

The next day feeling that I accomplish my goals and not wanting to overly duplicate images, I packed up and moved on. A bit east of Tapto Lakes are a few more small lakes, the most accessible being Middle Lakes. I decided to spend my last day here before heading back. Climbing back up to the ridge I turned and bid a somewhat sad goodbye to the lakes I had dreamed of revisiting all those years.

Middle Lakes turned out to be an easy short mile or so further, there was only a steep rock slope to cross to add a bit of excitement. When I reached upper Middle Lake I found the setting to be somewhat desolate. Surrounded by steep slopes on three sides and a boulder field at the outlet, there didn’t seem to be any good campsites. I moved on to check out the lower lake. The lower lake was more attractive, but it too afforded little flat ground for camping. However, when scouting for campsites I noticed an odd mound near the lake outlet with intense iron-red soil. There appeared to be a spring emanating from the mound. The main spring had formed small red mineral terraces similar to Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone. I felt the water but it was cool to the touch.

Mineral Spring, North Cascades National Park #61666 Purchase

Swirling clouds over Challenger Glacier, North Cascades National Park #61711 Purchase

I ultimately found a nice spot for the night among boulders and heather meadows with a commanding view of Mount Challenger. For a mountain with such an imposing glacier, it seemed that its elevation should be more than 8236′. During my entire stay in the area, I noticed nearly constant clouds near its summit. Apparently, for such a modest height Mount Challenger tends to make its own weather, partly explaining the huge glacier. For most of that afternoon and evening, I enjoyed and photographed a show of mists whimsically curling around the summit. To commemorate my trip to this special place I made several photos of my campsite, including a couple with the tent illuminated.

Illuminated tent and Mount Challenger, North Cascades National Park #61751 Purchase

Hiking Out

The next day it was time to head out, retracing my steps down to Whatcom Pass and into the Chilliwack River Valley. Although I was filled with a deep sense of accomplishment and satisfaction, I was also sad to say goodbye. I faced a long day of hiking filled with retrospection on this and my first trip to Whatcom Pass many years back. Once again a highlight was riding the cable car across the river. After around ten miles I reached Copper Creek Camp, tired with plenty of hot spots on my heels and toes. The next day I faced the stiff climb back up to Hannegan Pass and then the final miles out to the trailhead where my truck waited.

Nearing the pass I began to meet more hikers. Many of them were just beginning trips similar to mine. You could easily see the excitement on their faces, anticipating the wonders that were waiting for them. Of course, I stopped to chat and helped stoke their excitement by passing on some of the highlights from my trip. Then it was down the pass for the last five miles of the trip. Although I was out of North Cascades National Park and in the Mount Baker Wilderness, it was easy to sense civilization was close. I began to see more people on a wider well maintained trail. I got back to my truck in a few hours, in a parking lot that had dozens of cars in it.

Tired but happy I began to drive home. I began thinking about how soon I might get a chance to go back to Whatcom Pass.

Campsite on Red Face Mountain, Whatcom Peak in the distance, North Cascades National Park #61589 Purchase

Whatcom Pass Tapto Lakes North Cascades National Park Part 2

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September 3, 2017November 14, 2022

Whatcom Pass Tapto Lakes North Cascades National Park Part 1

Whatcom Pass Tapto Lakes North Cascades National

Whatcom Peak reflected in Tapto Lake # 61497 Purchase

A Long Awaited Journey

Everyone has a place they dream of, somewhere that holds a special spot in their heart. At some point in their lives, usually at a young age, they see a picture or read a story about a place that for various reasons grabs their imagination. They carry it with them over the years and hope someday for the chance to visit it in person. For me, it has always been mountain wilderness. And not just any run-of-the-mill mountain wilderness. It had to have a primordial feel. Dark mysterious forests, raging rivers, and rugged peaks with jagged rock summits jutting out from expansive glaciers. For me, the North Cascades fit the bill perfectly. It was this vision that drew me to Whatcom Pass many years ago.

Challenger Mountain, North Cascades National Park #61459 Purchase

Whatcom Pass Tapto Lakes North Cascades National Park Part 1

Several weeks ago I was finally able to make a return visit to Whatcom Pass and Tapto Lakes, in North Cascades National Park. In the heart of the park, Whatcom Pass is quintessential North Cascades wilderness. It rises out of deep untouched forest valleys to jaw-dropping views of rugged glacier-clad peaks. Far away from any road town or cell signal. My first visit was way back in the late eighties and I’ve been wanting to go back ever since. There have been many reasons for my delayed return, not least of which is the long tiring hike accompanied by swarms of flying insects.

Unlike most backpacking trips this one has a few major ups and downs in addition to covering lots of miles. On the first day climbs a pass and then descends deep into another valley. The next day you must climb up to another pass, then higher to the lakes basin. In all, you’ll cover around 40+ miles and about 8500′ of elevation, including side trips, before returning to the trailhead. A very strong hiker could make it in two days, most people allow three to four days. My primary goal was for photography and relaxation so I gave myself six days to accomplish this trip. Aside from the photography thing I always feel that if you work so hard to get someplace why hurry to leave? Take your time to relax and enjoy the surroundings!

Hannegan Pass Trail through Ruth Creek Valley, Mount Baker Wilderness #54291 Purchase

Hiking to Hannegan Pass

On the first day, I made an early start, hoping to make it through the brushy Ruth Creek Valley before the black flies awoke. It’s about five miles and 2000′ up to Hannegan Pass, along a very scenic trail that sees very heavy foot traffic. I’ve been up this trail to the pass nearly a dozen times and never get tired of the open views of rugged Nooksack Ridge. About halfway up you begin to see snowcapped Ruth Mountain guarding the head of the valley. Ruth Mountain itself is a popular destination for hikers climbers and skiers in the early season. Although I’m not much of a mountaineer I managed to hike up the glacier to the summit several years back. From the top, you get an incredible view of Mount Shuksan and its glaciers spilling into Nooksack Cirque. Truly awe-inspiring!

Entering the park #61415 Purchase

Down the Chilliwack Valley

On reaching Hannegan Pass I took a rest to have a snack and dry off my sweat-soaked shirt. I also chatted with a group of volunteers that were part of a trail maintenance crew. From here it’s all downhill into the wild Chilliwack River Valley, losing all that hard-won elevation. Shortly after leaving the pass I finally entered North Cascades National Park, as indicated by a weather beaten-wooden sign. The hike down into the valley is through a beautiful untouched fragrant forest of silver fir, mountain hemlock, and grand fir. The feeling here of true wilderness is very tangible, even the trail seems wilder. From the pass, I needed to travel another five miles to the U.S. Cabin camp, my first night’s destination.

Old-growth forest Chilliwack River Valley, North Cascades National Park #61421 Purchase

Ten miles is about my limit for hiking with a full multi-day pack, so I was glad to reach the camp and set up my tent. Amazingly there were very few bugs so far and I was able to relax and eat dinner along the river unmolested. I was even able to make a few photos of the impressive forest at this camp. That night I turned in early in anticipation of a grueling hike the next day. I had to hike another seven miles and over 3000′ up to my next and ultimate destination, Tapto Lakes above Whatcom Pass.

The next morning I again got up early to hit the trail. The first stop of the day was the unique crossing of the Chilliwack River via a hand-operated cable car. I don’t know how common these contraptions are but for most hikers, it’s a highlight of their trip. Later in the season crossing the river on foot wouldn’t be very hard, but why pass up such an interesting experience? Two hikers and their packs can fit in the car which is operated by pulling on a rope. It’s pretty easy getting across the first half since the cable sags down a bit. After that, you begin to pull your weight up to the opposite side. By the time I got the car docked on the platform, my arms were pretty tired from pulling. Of course, I had to make sure I got a few photos before moving on.

Chilliwack River cable car, North Cascades National Park #61427 Purchase

Climbing to Whatcom Pass

After the river crossing, it’s back to work again on the trail, which now goes through a very brushy section. Years ago, on my first visit, the chest-high brush was covered in morning dew. After half an hour of hiking, I was soaking from the waist down. A few miles later the climb to Whatcom Pass begins in earnest. The trail begins to rise from the valley bottom and gradually views open up to rugged Easy Ridge. After what seems like an eternity Whatcom Peak comes into view and the terrain begins to take on a subalpine look. I arrived at Whatcom Pass exhausted and again drenched in sweat from the climb.

Whatcom Pass Trail, North Cascades National Park #61764 Purchase

I still had another mile and 800′ feet of elevation to travel to my camp at Tapto Lakes. At this point, I was wiped out and wasn’t sure if I could make it. The trail to the lakes is more like a climber’s route, with sections so steep you need to pull yourself up by roots and branches. While deciding if I had the energy I spoke with a few other backpackers doing the cross-park hike to Ross Lake. Like me, they spent the whole morning climbing up to Whatcom Pass. However, they only paused briefly to take in the views before heading down again into the adjacent valley.

Again I thought to myself, what’s the point in all the work if you hurry past the best parts? The previous day I met a woman doing the Pacific Northwest Trail. This 1200-mile-long trail starts at Glacier Park in Montana and ends at the Pacific Ocean. Like the Pacific Crest, Continental Divide, and Appalachian trails, you need to hike a set number of miles each day to complete it. During our brief conversation, I couldn’t help admiring her determination and stamina. At the same time, I also felt a bit sorry for her that she needed to hurry through such beauty to stay on schedule.

Challenger Mountain and Whatcom Peak, North Cascades National Park #61443 Purchase

At Tapto Lakes

By this time I felt physically and mentally rested enough to slog up to reach my camp at Tapto Lakes. Taking it very slowly, the climb proved easier than I anticipated. Soon enough the views exploded to include Mount Challenger and the imposing rock buttresses of Whatcom Peak. A short 200′ descent into the basin brought me to beautiful Tapto Lakes. The day was still young so I took my time and leisurely explored the area to find the best campsite. The only other people there was a small group staying at the pass below. They had day hiked up to the lakes to take in the views and a quick dip in the frigid lake waters. When they left I had the entire place all to myself!

Time to rest and take it all in, and do nothing but marvel at the rugged beauty that spread before my eyes. At last, I returned to the place that held my imagination spellbound for nearly 28 years.

Coming up in part two: Exploring and photographing at Tapto Lakes. Click here to read part two

Tapto Lake, North Cascades National Park #61455 Purchase

Read Part 2 here!

Whatcom Pass Tapto Lakes North Cascades National Park Part 1

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August 31, 2017January 24, 2019

Coast Mountains

How to tell if you’re hiking in the Coast Mountains trail of British Columbia:

State of the art bridges over creek crossing
Deep mud with slippery logs and branches strategically placed for optimum ankle twisting

I actually love these types of trails, there’s a sense of true wilderness about them, unlike some of the crowded super highway trails found in Washington and Oregon. These pics are from a few days ago during a visit to Marriott Basin in the Coast Mountains.

I have lots of new photos in the works from this and my previous trip to North Cascades National Park. Stay tuned you’re going to love them!!